RIM BRAKE WHEELS TESTED

We test 12 of the latest lower cost rim brake wheelsets to find the best performers for you

A simple way to upgrade the performance of your bike is a new set of wheels. We rate 12 pairs, from £334.99 to £600, to keep you rolling.

Wheels are a spinning mass that have to be accelerated, decelerated and turned rather than just staying static on the frame so a lighter, more responsive wheelset can transform the performance of a previously sluggish bike. Stiff wheels can turn a ride that feels uninspiring when you put the power down into a muscular missile. Tubeless wheels and tyres can keep you puncture free and pedalling where conventional wheels will leave you deflated. But what do you need to know to get the right set for you?

Don’t get hung up on budget. If this test proves anything it’s that thoughtfully curated, cost-effective components can often embarrass more expensive mass produced sets. Don’t think that because all the wheels here use aluminium alloy for the rims they can’t be as good as fancy carbon fibre. Alloy is cheap, light, easy to shape, has no heat/brake pad issues on mountain descents and is potentially repairable, if the dings are small. Alloy also gives more consistent braking performance than carbon, particularly in the wet. Several sets on test are light enough to make fibre look fat when it comes to acceleration.

For comfortable, fast cruising on mixed road surfaces and puncture-proof survival, a wider (18mm-plus internal) tubeless wheelset is the way to go. Avoid supertight, over-stiff builds unless you’re a powerful rider who likes a stand-up sprint.

If you want to boost a bike’s climbing performance look for a wheelset as close to 1500g as possible, but make sure the freehub backs it up with prompt engagement. If you want a sturdy option go for lots of spokes and hubs with wellsealed, durable or self-serviceable bearings. If you’re wandering through the wilds, steer clear of wheels that need rare spokes or any other sort of novelty design element that’ll be hard to find spares for. If you’re going to put in big miles, hit rough roads or you’re heavy on kit, make sure the wheels are well built and hold tension.

Finally, match the package to your needs. Have you already got decent skewers? Do you have good tyres already or would having them supplied at a discount or even fitted tubelessly before delivery be a real help?

So, read our reviews and then ride off into the sunset with the perfect wheelset for you and a decent amount of cash still in your pocket.

5 FREEHUB The quicker a freehub engages when you pedal the faster and more responsive the wheel will feel. Steel or steel reinforced freehub bodies resist scarring and sticking better, particularly with cheaper separate cog cassettes. 6 AXLES All the wheels here use a traditional quick-release skewer to fix them into the frame, as that’s still the most common dropout on rim brake bikes. Some have switchable end caps to run on thru-axle bikes too, but that’s generally a disc brake bike thing. 1 RIM The rim is arguably the most important performance component in a wheel. Lighter rims are easier to accelerate. Wider rims create a broader, smoother rolling tyre profile. Deeper rims cut through the air better to reduce drag. 2 TUBELESS Tubeless rims and tyres let you ditch inner tubes in favour of liquid sealant to plug holes. Levels of tubeless sealing range from airtight rims, tapesealed rims with ready-installed valves to a more secure rim edge for DIY sealing. 3 SPOKES Spokes vary from thick aero blades to round wires in various gauges. Spoke numbers also vary from 16 to 32 per wheel. Whatever the build, how the spokes are arranged and how well they’re tensioned make a difference to how a wheel feels, performs and lasts. 4 HUB You’ll find lots of variations in hub diameter and shape with fatter hubs generally transferring power and steering inputs better. Some use regular flanges for traditional J-bend spokes, others use blocks or anchor slots for straightpull spokes.