REMOVE & REPLACE YOUR BRAKE PADS

Few things will improve your cycling safety more than a brand new set of brake pads. We show you how to remove and install cartridge and non-cartridge designs for safer and squeal-free riding

(01) CHECKING FOR WEAR

Brakes work through the friction between brake pad and rim, and over time the softer pad material will wear away. If the pad thins to beyond its wear indicator line, it’s time to change pads. If your pad doesn’t have an indicator line, change the pad when its grooves are approaching the halfway point. Poorly aligned pads may have formed a ridge – remove this with a file if you plan to keep using the pads.

(02) CLEANING CURRENT ONES

Regularly cleaning worn material and dirt from the pads means you might be able to extend their life a little. Periodically remove the pads to wipe clean, and check for grit or tiny fragments of metal or glass caught in the pad’s grooves – these can contribute towards premature wear of the rim. It’s also a good idea to clean your rims from time to time with alcohol wipes.

(03) REMOVING CARTRIDGE PADS

More expensive brakes usually have a metal carrier into which the rubber brake pad slides. Theoretically this cartridge means you can change the pads without having to adjust the brakes too much, reducing waste and cost. Simply remove the brake pad’s retaining bolt (Shimano uses a grub screw with a 2mm Allen head) or pin, taking care not to bend it, and slide the old pad out.

(04) CARTRIDGE PADS

Before you install a new brake pad, it’s a good idea to clean the metal carrier with an alcohol wipe or non-solvent cleanser, which will make sliding the new pad in a little easier. Push the new pad into the carrier, ensuring that it is fully engaged. Replace the pin or bolt. You may need to jiggle the pad around a bit at this point to make sure that it is engaged properly.

(05) NON CARTRIDGE PADS

Non-cartridge brakes are common on budget road bikes. Replacing a non-cartridge pad is simply a case of undoing the old, and replacing with a new one. Ensure that the pad is correctly orientated – many will have guiding arrows. Compare the old pad with the new to make sure you have a similar amount of spacers between the pad and the brake arm.

(06) TOE IN GIN

‘Toeing in’ pads helps to reduce brake squeal and to ensure predictable braking. To get the front end of the pad to contact the rim first, place a credit card depth piece of plastic or card behind the tail edge of the pad, and push the pad and card squarely onto the rim. Tighten the bolt, remove the card and your pad should be nicely toed in.

(07) LINING UP

Brake pads that overhang the bottom of the rim’s braking surface or rub on the tyre can affect component wear and potentially cause a highspeed puncture. With the pad’s bolt loose, push the pad to the rim – remembering to toe it in – and ensure that the pad’s surface is squarely against only the rim. Tighten the bolt, and remember to hold the pad securely to counteract the bolt tightening.

(08) FINAL CHECKS

With new fresh brake pads, you might find that the braking point of your levers will have changed a little – use the barrel adjuster to get the braking back to your preferred feel. New brake pads may also need a little bedding-in time to get rid of the manufactured surface – so be wary over the first few miles. Changing pads is also the perfect time to check for rim wear and damage.