SWISS ROLLS
With ribbons of perfect asphalt that swirl endlessly around the dramatic alpine landscape, Graubünden is Switzerland’s undiscovered cycling paradise
Any alpine cycling region worth its salt should have a river running through it, and in Graubünden’s case, it’s the Rhine – one of the most important waterways in Europe. Its two sources are connected by mile upon mile of irresistible, pristine roads. Follow the exploits of this lucky group of five cyclists as they ride monumental alpine passes, sample culinary highlights and bask in breathtaking scenery over three glorious days – you may find yourself inspired to do the same.
THE ROAD TO THE RHINE
“We see the Rhine for the first time shortly after leaving the capital city of Graubünden, Chur, and follow it upstream to Reichenau. It’s here where the Anterior and Posterior Rhine unite into one. From here the Rhine travels through five countries until it flows into the North Sea in Rotterdam.
“We follow the Posterior Rhine through the fruit-growing and fortress region of Domleschg to Thusis, where the ascent to the Viamala gorge begins. Glacial shifts and raging water over millions of years have created an impressive natural wonder – the gorge is 300 metres deep. Viamala literally translates to ‘bad way’, though thankfully the passage is completely safe thanks to resourceful engineering and landscaping. In Zillis, at the southern end of the gorge, we fill up on capuns, the regional speciality. Famous chefs including Jamie Oliver learnt how to make it here, and this award-winning Swiss chard roll, with a meat dumpling filling, gives us the strength we need for the next ascent.”
THE SAN BERNARDINO PASS
“The Rofflaschlucht gorge, the picturesque pass village of Splügen and the San Bernardino Pass with its 28 hairpins lie ahead of us. On the climb, we enjoy a fantastic view of the Rheinquellhorn and the Rheinwaldhorn where the source of the Posterior Rhine originates. After recovering from the climb at Laghetto Moesola on top of the pass, we relish the fast descent through the Italian-speaking area of Graubünden. A descent of 1,800 metres is awaiting us, and with it a journey from the high alps down to the Mediterranean region. Throughout our descent, it not only feels like we’re going through several kinds of vegetation, but also different climates.”