Cycling Plus

ROADPEDALS

Whatever your preferred cycling entails, clipless pedals have huge benefits for every rider at every level

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From the ‘humble’ SPDcompati­ble Boardman and Wellgo pedals to racier highend systems from the likes of Time, Look, Shimano, Bontrager, Crank Bros and Speedplay, we put 16 pedals to the test.

If, like us, your earliest cycling involved pedalling in metal toe clips, with straps holding your foot in place, you’ll be pleased that the design advances of Look, then Time and Shimano in the mid-to-late 1980s, gave us what we know today as clipless pedals. The convenienc­e of being able to step on and lock in to the pedal, rather than flip up the clip, fiddle your shoe in, then tighten the strap while wobbling along the road can’t be overstated

Intuitivel­y fast release with a simple twist is something we take for granted, but it’s infinitely preferable to panicking when you can’t extricate yourself in time. A major plus for clipless pedals is the fact that they automatica­lly release in the event of an accident.

Pedals can be easily overlooked by riders striving to find their best bike and researchin­g upgrades of wheels, tyres and components, but a little time spent choosing and setting up your pedals (and shoes) can pay dividends. A cyclist has four points of contact with their bike - saddle, handlebar and two pedals; as the pedals are subjected to the most abuse, choosing the right ones is crucial.

The interface between your shoes and pedals also needs to be secure without causing you any biomechani­cal woes, so knowing what can help you stay efficient and healthy matters too. If you suffer with any knee or ankle problems, then it’s probably worth investigat­ing pedals with float that won’t aggravate it, but still allow you to exploit your potential.

While many road and off-road pedals conform to a similar pattern, there is still great variety on the market at all price points. The majority use a cleat fixed firmly to the shoe’s sole that engages with the pedal to form a solid connection, but some reverse this convention. The bottom line is finding a pedal that is right for you and the sort of cycling you do.

We’ve tested a wide selection of road pedals, plus several more suited to commuting duty or off-road excursions.

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 ??  ?? 1 AXLE Most commonly made of steel, more expensive models may have hollow steel axles, or even titanium to save weight. At 9/16in with 20 threads per inch to match a standard crank’s pitch, it’s finely machined to support the bearings that carry the pedal body and keep it all spinning freely. 4 FLOAT Early clipless pedals had a solid attachment, requiring precise cleat alignment. In 1988, Time created the first pedal with inbuilt float, allowing the foot to rotate by several degrees before activating release. It allows you to pedal in a more natural way, rather than enforcing a rigid range of movement. 2 SEALS Pedal bearings don’t last long when water and road dirt get in amongst them, which is quite likely given their constant rotation and regular proximity to the road surface. Extra seals are placed on the inside of the pedal axles to try to prevent the ingress of contaminan­ts in to the system. 5 CLEAT SUPPORT SURFACE The shoe cleat doesn’t only rest on the front and rear of the pedal, but should be supported in the middle of the cleat to give the shoe a solid base to push against. This surface’s width and total area affects how stable you feel when riding out of the saddle where greater width is preferable. 3 LOCKING INTERFACE The main assembly for securing the cleat to the pedal. Usually situated within the pedal itself, it can also be incorporat­ed in to the cleat design, as with Speedplay pedals. Most pedals offer simple tension adjustment, allowing you to alter the force required to engage and release the cleat. 6 STACK HEIGHT The distance between the centre of the pedal axle and the sole of your shoe. A reduced stack height permits more effective pedalling and increases overall stability. Pedal, cleat and shoe design, and whether your pedal system requires an additional cleat adaptor all affect stack height.
1 AXLE Most commonly made of steel, more expensive models may have hollow steel axles, or even titanium to save weight. At 9/16in with 20 threads per inch to match a standard crank’s pitch, it’s finely machined to support the bearings that carry the pedal body and keep it all spinning freely. 4 FLOAT Early clipless pedals had a solid attachment, requiring precise cleat alignment. In 1988, Time created the first pedal with inbuilt float, allowing the foot to rotate by several degrees before activating release. It allows you to pedal in a more natural way, rather than enforcing a rigid range of movement. 2 SEALS Pedal bearings don’t last long when water and road dirt get in amongst them, which is quite likely given their constant rotation and regular proximity to the road surface. Extra seals are placed on the inside of the pedal axles to try to prevent the ingress of contaminan­ts in to the system. 5 CLEAT SUPPORT SURFACE The shoe cleat doesn’t only rest on the front and rear of the pedal, but should be supported in the middle of the cleat to give the shoe a solid base to push against. This surface’s width and total area affects how stable you feel when riding out of the saddle where greater width is preferable. 3 LOCKING INTERFACE The main assembly for securing the cleat to the pedal. Usually situated within the pedal itself, it can also be incorporat­ed in to the cleat design, as with Speedplay pedals. Most pedals offer simple tension adjustment, allowing you to alter the force required to engage and release the cleat. 6 STACK HEIGHT The distance between the centre of the pedal axle and the sole of your shoe. A reduced stack height permits more effective pedalling and increases overall stability. Pedal, cleat and shoe design, and whether your pedal system requires an additional cleat adaptor all affect stack height.
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