delicious

HOW TO DEFINE SOUL FOOD?

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What in life is the equivalent of a big, warm hug? A comforting soup, a cashmere rug, a fireplace, a glass of mulled cider, friends, family, laughter, music and feasting. This issue focuses on soul food; albeit that of the nourishing kind rather than what’s characteri­stic of America’s Deep South (although fried chicken with grits can do something for the soul when one has spent the previous night enjoying the comforts of a good red wine). The idea of comfort food has shifted slightly over the years – perhaps you’re now having that lasagne gluten or meat free (and if you are, check out our healthy-ish lasagne on page 86). You may be captivated by a whole new world of vegetable cooking techniques and looking for standalone vegetarian comfort dishes, just like Valli Little on page 70. You likely still love a good roast, but may be short on time like Matt Moran, who proposes some inspired one-pot recipes on page 62. Or perhaps winter calls for the most epic toasties possible, and Darren Purchese delivers with an extract from his new book, Chefs Eat Toasties Too, on page 110. From chicken soups to modern crumbles to brilliant winter market baskets (such as that of Ester’s Mat Lindsay), this is often the most inspiring time to cook, feast, travel and explore. There is no doubt our palates have broadened, our adventures grown wider, and our iPhones become the gateway to the world. We are more curious about cuisines (and countries) that have, for a long time, known spices to be grounding and to deliver health benefits. Sri Lanka is one such, both as a destinatio­n to travel to, and as a style of food to explore. One of Australia’s most talented chefs, O Tama Carey, warms the soul with her story on Sri Lanka and its unique spices on page 78. Meanwhile, the original ‘spice queen’, Christine Manfield, traverses Cambodia and converts key flavours from her travels to some inspiratio­nal recipes on page 128. We’ve also opened up to a few fresh ideas and inspiratio­ns here at delicious. and you’ll notice some new additions. Seafood experts John Susman and Anthony Huckstep introduce Catch of the Day, which focuses on the vast variety of Australian seafood and how to cook it easily at home. And Last Course is our new endnote to the issue – we’ll investigat­e how tastemaker­s love to finish a meal. A fitting finale for a bunch of bon vivants!

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