Review

This Apple Isle newcomer sets the bar high in style and substance, and charms the (grumpy) pants right off Anthony Huckstep.

Born in Brunswick: a bright Tassie star.

upon arrival at a restaurant can change one’s entire dining experience. When I visit Born in Brunswick in Hobart’s north I’m a little bit cagey. A restless night, delayed flight and oh-so-trite roadwork stoppages have me wearing my grumpy pants – up over my waist.

So yes, I arrive at Born in Brunswick as a fully fledged member of the grumpy club, only to be greeted by a smiling face.

“Good afternoon, sir, welcome. How was your day? We’ve got some great beers, can I start you off with a drink?”

There’s a wonderful energy about Born in Brunswick, and that seems to rub off on everyone who visits. Before I know it, the grumpy pants are off, replaced firmly with party pants.

The restaurant’s light-filled space is all soft grey walls, blond Tasmanian oak furniture and polished concrete floors. Runs of greenery, floor-to- ceiling windows and rows of skylights bring the outside in, giving the space a natural breath of fresh air – something they’ve gifted the brunch and lunch market for the time being.

Owned by mates Ben Korkmaz and Con Vailas, Born in Brunswick sounds like it should be in Melbourne. Indeed, it’s inspired by former MasterChef contestant Vailas’ time in the food capital for filming.

But the restaurant is a sign of the times for the Apple Isle’s burgeoning food movement: smart operators bringing the best of their travels home, but proudly celebrating the local, too.

The duo hired the services of young chef Josh Retzer, who is proving to be one to watch. Although his food could do with a bit of restraint, his technical prowess, combinations and confidence result in dishes that are playful and a joy to eat.

The satisfying, toothsome give of cuttlefish plays a game of twang, chew and crunch with daikon, compressed apple, pickled fungus, charred cucumber and apple dashi. It’s a wonderfully lively dish, the kind that coerces you to smile.

Then lightly cured venison has its own party with poached stone fruits, black garlic, rye and burnt butter that, with a heavier hand, could get, well, a bit out of hand. But here, it works.

Juniper and wattleseed are front and centre in cheesecake form, rounded out with native honey, caramelised white chocolate and macadamia. It may be a little foreign to some, but I quite liked it.

A restaurant bringing joy to those looking to leave their troubles behind at the door is a boon for Tassie. Letting go for a few hours, eating, drinking and talking with friends in inviting, comfortable surrounds – Born in Brunswick has your back.