BLUE MACKEREL

Affordable ans sustainable, blue mackerel is his favourite eating fish, declares Anthony Huckstep – despite its slimy nickname.

IF I WERE A fish, I’d be the spotted chub mackerel, if for the name alone. Though for how it sums up my physical appearance, the blue mackerel, perhaps my favourite eating fish, is a more apt comparison.

With far from glamorous nicknames, such as ‘slimy’ and ‘horse’, blue mackerels are often kids’ first keeper-catch because ‘slimys’ will nibble on anything, even an unbaited hook, for the chance of a feed. Who knew we had so much in common?

A member of the same pelagic family as tuna, blue mackerel are available yearround, and are prolific breeders and fast growers, making them highly sustainable.

This relatively small, torpedo-shaped fish has a shimmering blue back with black stripes and a spotted silver belly.

Firm-grained and high in fat, the blue mackerel is highly regarded by Japanese chefs for sousing (pouring hot water over raw mackerel to set the protein).

In Sydney, Ibrahim Kasif, chef and owner of Stanbuli in Enmore, pan-fries blue mackerel skin-side down for his signature ‘fish sandwich’ – arguably the best thing on a bun in Sydney.

“I love the flavour, it’s delicious,” says Kasif. “Mackerel are cheap, yes, but rich in flavour, thanks to that oiliness some people don’t seem to like.”

His blue mackerel sandwich is a spin on the humble street-side fish sandwich in Turkey – mackerel, lettuce, onion and pickled turnips united in a soft bun.

“I love that we can grill a whole fish and it becomes so smoky and tender. I love that we can pan-fry it in olive oil and butter as the skin goes crisp,” says Kasif. “I’m mindful that sometimes the fish, even though fresh, can be a little mushy in consistency. So we give it a quick 20-minute brine before cooking.”

The flesh is an eating experience to behold – a juicy roast meat with notes of green seaweed and a texture that is soft when raw and medium-firm when cooked.

Until recently, they’ve been used as bait for commercial tuna, lobster and crab – no wonder those critters taste so good.

But blue mackerel’s ready availability, low price point and delicious eating qualities are seeing it appear far more regularly on the plate than the hook.