Ed’s Letter
TRADITIONALLY OUR ANNUAL ‘global’ issue is one of our most popular issues. We canvas the most intriguing, delicious or trending cuisines and destinations that have captured the world’s attention each year. But what happens when travel
(and eating out) is all of a sudden forbidden? Well, the only option is for us to bring the world and its flavours to you.
In fact, armchair travel has never seemed so appealing, as we take up virtual museum tours, retreats and cruises from the enforced comfort of our homes. Equally, as necessity requires and time stands still, we increasingly find ourselves cooking up a storm, inspired by our favourite holidays, or trying to recapture memories of happy times from different destinations. We may be trying our hand at a new skill set, or ordering in a feast, perhaps spicy Thai from Chin Chin, or Middle Eastern fare from Maha or Nour, empanadas from Bar Lourinhã, or watching a chocolate-souffle masterclass streamed live from Vue de Monde from the comfort of your couch. Let’s face it, we finally have the time.
This month seems like the perfect time to master Ross Dobson’s easy Chinese on page 66, or pay homage to Portuguese cooking with Matt Preston, whose feature on page 56 was influenced by a memorable personal trip. Gill Meller’s ode to making do with whatever is in season is certainly of the moment – even though it’s been of the moment for centuries! His easy, comforting, nourishing recipes hit the spot, on page 92. Jonathan Barthelmess brings the flavour of his beloved Japanese spices to convert home staples like rice and chicken
(p 48). Our food director Phoebe Wood comes to the rescue with some fantastic 30-minute curries, and Kirsten Jenkins’ sweet take on ginger is absolutely immunity boosting so permission to indulge. I vascillated between Ellie and Sam Studd’s easy Swiss fondue, with its fascinating secret ingredient (you’ll have to turn to page 42 to find out), and Yotam Ottolenghi’s sweet and spicy ribs (p 38). But it was an extract from a new British book called Oats from the North, Wheat from the South that really caught my attention. Author Regula Ysewijn helped me rediscover flapjacks (yes, flapjacks!) and I have cooked them on repeat during our time in isolation as these ingredients were some I had in abundance. My kids assured me flapjacks were infinitely better than muesli bars. But one of her comments stayed with me: “There is no better time for a good piece of cake and a cup of strong English tea.” Hear, hear. The world has certainly changed, and while it is full of wonderful and complex flavours and experiences, there will always be room for simple pleasures.