Winter’s soup-er hero saves the day with good-for-you greens and vegies and nourishing bone broth.
The trusty soup is given the superhero status it deserves thanks to Silvia Colloca’s additions that pack a punch. Winter greens, bone broth and wholesome vegies power every bowl in this collection that proves zuppa always saves the day.
YOU SAY WINTER, I say soup. Even on those gloriously warm days we often enjoy in July and August, my loyalty lies with warming bowls of goodness, brimming with powerful bitter greens, filling legumes and nourishing vegetables.
My recipe library for zuppa, Italian for soup, is rather large, a true testament to my devotion to this type of preparation. What I love most about these recipes is that they require no particular technique – just a bit of chopping (rough, in my case!), some generous seasoning and sourcing of seasonal produce. Think cavolo nero mingling with sausage and cannellini beans, tirelessly versatile cauliflower paired with the creaminess of parmesan and the fresh zest of lemon, or punchy bitter greens kissed by a hint of horseradish, to warm up body and soul.
Some of these recipes are gluten free as well, proving once more that Italian flavours don’t always need a wheat companion. But if you have leftover bread lying around, have a go at canederli, a northern Italian sage-andspeck-flavoured dumpling famous for being addictive. And of course, baby pasta, such as risoni, expresses its ultimate purpose when tossed in a chicken soup, one of my ultimate comfort meals. Stay cosy, stay warm!
CHICKEN & RISONI SOUP SERVES 4-6
“Leftovers of this soup can be frozen for up to two months.” 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1 small (about 1.5kg) whole chicken 1 onion, finely chopped 1 fennel bulb, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 3 bay leaves 3 thyme sprigs 1 tsp fennel seeds 800g can cherry tomatoes 4 cups (1L) chicken stock 3/4 cup (120g) Sicilian green olives Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 1/2 cup (110g) risoni (orzo) 3/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped Pesto (optional) and toasts, to serve
Preheat oven to 220°C. Heat oil in a large heavy-based ovenproof saucepan over medium-high heat. Add chicken, breastside down, and cook, turning regularly, for 10 minutes or until browned all over.
Turn chicken breast-side up. Add vegetables, bay leaves, thyme, fennel seeds, tomatoes, stock, olives and lemon zest. Season and stir to combine.
Bring to the boil, cover with lid and place in oven for 30 minutes. Add risoni, stir to combine and cook for a further 15-20 minutes until pasta is al dente. Remove from oven, place lid ajar and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate to cool slightly, then shred meat, discarding skin and bones.
Bring soup to the boil over mediumhigh heat. Add 1 cup (250ml) water to loosen soup, reduce to a simmer and return shredded chicken to pan. Stir for 1-2 minutes to warm through. Remove from heat and gently stir in lemon juice and parsley.
Divide soup among serving bowls. Top with a dollop of pesto, if using, and serve with toasts.
BREAD, SAGE & SPECK CANEDERLI WITH BONE BROTH SERVES 4
“These bread dumplings are Italy’s answer to Germany’s knödel.” 200ml milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 loaf (680g) day-old sliced white bread, crusts removed, cut into cubes
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
120g unsalted butter
150g speck (or smoked bacon), rind
removed, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
3/4 cup sage leaves, 4 leaves finely
chopped, remaining left whole
1/4 cup finely chopped chives
8 cups (2L) store-bought chicken bone broth (or good-quality chicken stock)
Juice of 1 lemon
1 bunch rainbow chard, trimmed Pinch of finely grated nutmeg
Line a baking tray with baking paper. Combine milk and egg in a bowl, add bread, toss to coat, and set aside to soak.
Place oil and 1 tbs (20g) butter in a frypan over medium heat, add speck and onion and cook for 4 minutes or until onion is soft. Add chopped sage leaves and cook for a further minute. Set aside to cool.
Place bread and its soaking liquid, speck and onion mixture and chives in a food processor, season and pulse until just combined. With slightly wet hands, form heaped tablespoonfuls of mixture into balls. Place dumplings on prepared tray.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. In batches, add dumplings, reduce to a simmer and cook for 8 minutes. Gently remove with a slotted spoon, drain and place on a plate and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Using the same cooking liquid, blanch rainbow chard stems for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander.
Meanwhile, bring broth to the boil in a saucepan, then reduce heat to keep warm. Lightly season and add lemon juice.
Melt remaining 100g butter in a frypan over medium heat. Add sage leaves and nutmeg, and cook for 2-3 minutes until sage is crisp and butter is lightly browned. Pour into a heatproof bowl.
Divide chard among bowls, top with dumplings and ladle broth on top. Scatter with crisp sage and drizzle with brown butter to serve.
WINTER GREENS SOUP WITH PROSCIUTTO WAFERS SERVES 4-6
“Any leafy vegetable, such as silverbeet or English spinach, will work here.” 1/ 3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil 400g speck (or smoked bacon), rind removed, chopped into 2cm pieces 2 onions, finely chopped 2 potatoes (about 300g), peeled, chopped into 2cm pieces 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 cups (1L) chicken stock 2 heads broccoli, cut into florets, stems chopped 1 bunch kale, stems removed, leaves torn 1 large bunch watercress, stems and leaves chopped 6 very thin slices prosciutto 1/ 2 cup (40g) parmesan, finely grated 12 sage leaves 1/ 3 cup (80ml) thickened cream 11/ 2 tbs store-bought horseradish cream
Preheat oven to 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
Heat 1/4 cup (60ml) oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add speck and onion, and cook for 8 minutes or until onion is soft. Add potato and garlic, season and cook, stirring regularly, for a further 5 minutes or until mixture is sweet and lightly browned. Add stock and 2 cups (500ml) water, increase heat and bring to the boil for 6 minutes or until potato is just tender. Add broccoli and kale, cook for 4 minutes, then add watercress. Cook for a further 2 minutes.
Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender (or use a stick blender) and blitz until very smooth. Season.
Meanwhile, place prosciutto on prepared tray, scatter with parmesan and top with sage leaves. Drizzle with remaining 1 tbs oil. Bake for 10 minutes or until crisp and golden.
Place cream in a bowl and whisk until just starting to thicken, then stir in horseradish cream and season.
Divide soup among serving bowls, top with horseradish cream and serve with prosciutto wafers.
CAULIFLOWER & PARMESAN SOUP WITH GREMOLATA OIL SERVES 4-6
“When you finish a wedge of parmesan, tuck the rind away in the fridge to use for flavouring soups like this.” 2/ 3 cup (160ml) extra virgin olive oil 1 cauliflower, trimmed, cut into small florets 2 small potatoes (about 300g), peeled, chopped into 2cm pieces 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 leek (white part only), thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed, plus 1 extra whole garlic clove 4 cups (1L) vegetable or chicken stock 3 cups (750ml) milk 1 parmesan rind, plus 11/ 2 cups (90g) finely grated parmesan 3/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves Pared zest of 1 lemon Micro parsley and chilli flakes, to serve
Heat half the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium-high heat. Add cauliflower, potato, celery, leek and crushed garlic, season and cook for 7 minutes, stirring regularly.
Add stock, milk and parmesan rind, bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring regularly, for 20 minutes or until vegetables are soft. Turn off heat and discard parmesan rind. Stir in grated parmesan and transfer to a blender (or use a stick blender) and blitz until very smooth. Season.
Meanwhile, to make gremolata oil, place parsley, extra garlic clove and lemon zest on a chopping board and finely chop all together. Place mixture in a small bowl and add remaining 1/ 3 cup (80ml) oil. Season and stir to combine.
Divide soup among serving bowls, spoon over gremolata oil and scatter with micro parsley and a pinch of chilli flakes to serve.
MINESTRONE WITH SAUSAGE, BEANS & CAVOLO NERO SERVES 6
“I used pork and fennel sausages, but any Italian-style pork sausages would work just as well.” 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 4 (about 320g) Italian-style sausages, casings removed, crumbled 1 onion, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbs finely chopped rosemary leaves 3/4 cup (180ml) white wine 4 cups (1L) chicken or vegetable stock 2 cups (500ml) passata 400g can cannellini beans, rinsed, drained 3/4 cup (150g) arborio rice 1 bunch cavolo nero, stems removed, leaves torn Finely grated pecorino and basil, to serve
Heat oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium-high heat, add sausage meat and cook for 5 minutes, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon.
Reduce heat to medium, add onion, celery, carrot, garlic and rosemary, and cook, stirring occasionally, for a further 5 minutes or until softened. Add wine, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes or until reduced by half. Add stock, passata, cannellini beans and arborio rice. Season, bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes.
Add cavolo nero and cook for a further 1-2 minutes until wilted.
Divide soup among serving bowls, scatter with pecorino and basil to serve.