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UBUD MOMENT

Since first visiting the Balinese village of Ubud as a child, digital nomad Katie McKnoulty has returned for work and leisure many times. Here, The Travelling Light writer and photograph­er shares her top tips.

- @thetravell­inglight

Ubud is a global village with all the good that comes from that diversity while still feeling small and local. It has become a place where new ideas around healthy living, sustainabi­lity, spirituali­ty, business, art and creativity are tested. You can also get a feel for daily Balinese life in Ubud. There are so many little hole-in-thewall cafes, restaurant­s and stores lining the cobbled laneway of Jalan Goutama, tucked away in the centre of Ubud. My favourites are Waroeng Bernadette for the jackfruit rendang curry, Warung Biah Biah for Indonesian tasting dishes and Soma for super-healthy food.

Visit Penestanan, just outside Ubud, and weave your way through the maze of houses with beautiful gardens – if you venture far enough you'll find yourself among the rice fields. Or stick to the main street, Jalan Penestanan, and its mix of vegan cafes, bars and local food. When it comes to food, Ubud has a plethora of options. You must try nasi campur (‘mixed rice’). An Indonesian staple, it consists of rice mixed with tastes of different dishes – from stir-fried veg to marinated meat, tempeh and tofu, nuts and spicy sambal sauce. My top places for nasi campur are the vegetarian Prima Warung, where everything is made and served by Prima; and Pulau Kelapa, with a sprawling organic garden that supplies most of the ingredient­s in their version. For a modern, healthy take, I love the red rice and vegan accompanim­ents at Bali Buda.

Have brunch at Yellow Flower Cafe in Penestanan after a yoga class at Intuitive Flow next door. At Yellow Flower, I'll order a turmeric and coconut water jamu drink and a filled lentil and rice pancake.

Another go-to is Moksa, a scooterrid­e from the centre, where everything is raw and vegan. I love the living lasagne with pumpkin dough and the tofu curry. The setting is beautiful too, overlookin­g the restaurant's permacultu­re garden.

Buy or learn to make beautiful ceramic pieces at Gaya Ceramic. Nadis Herbal is run by a local female herbalist who makes an array of natural beauty and health products using herbs from her farm. For yoga, meditation and spiritual healing, try Pyramids of Chi, or mega-wellness centre, The Yoga Barn.

To get among the local remotework­ing and entreprene­urial population, head to co-working space, Outpost.

 ?? ?? CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Katie McKnoulty; Yellow Flower Cafe; Ubud’s green surrounds; dining at Moksa (inset); pockets of rainforest; locals go about their daily rhythms.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Katie McKnoulty; Yellow Flower Cafe; Ubud’s green surrounds; dining at Moksa (inset); pockets of rainforest; locals go about their daily rhythms.
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