Digital Camera World

Photo Active

10 fresh projects to try, including focusstack­ing with Dave Wilder, modifying a old film lens and celebratin­g fireworks

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So many settings and variables go into making a great image. Sometimes we concentrat­e so much on exposure that we end up neglecting the focal point, picking a random point in the distance that does nothing to enhance the landscape in front of us.

When it comes to focus, there are plenty of options, but here we’re going to explore focus-stacking and the theory behind it.

The human eye doesn’t see everything in focus at the same time: it focuses on the foreground or the background, and leaves everything else out of focus. This is why a focus-stacked image has such a powerful look, bringing new life to a frame that might not otherwise work.

Focus-stacking can be approached in one of two ways: manually setting the focus using the focus ring or, if your camera has it, using the built-in Focus Shift function. (here, I’m using a Nikon D850.) Let’s talk about some of the considerat­ions you need to make, beyond just making the focus-stack…

1 Sturdy setup

Once you’ve found your location, set up the compositio­n with the camera on a firmly-planted tripod, making sure nothing is going to move. The camera and subject need to be still. If either move too much, you will run into problems when it comes time to assembling the images. I used a tripod with a flexible central column that enabled me to get low to the ground, and added a graduated neutral-density filter to my wide-angle lens to darken the sky.

2 Camera settings

Using a higher f/stop like f/16 will allow for more depth of field in each image, making it easier to assemble the images while editing. Shutter speed will also need to be considered to eliminate any camera or subject movement. If you want to shoot a long exposure for the clouds or water in your frame, you will need to shoot those images separately from the stack and blend them in manually when processing. Settings vary depending on the light and location; my ISO here was at its lowest, 64.

3 Final checks

Check over your framing before you start stacking, as you can’t move the camera between shots. Turn on Live View and use a built-in or add-on spirit level to make sure the horizon is straight. Turn off noise reduction on your lens (if it has it) and set the lens’ initial focal point nearest to the camera. Before you start shooting your sequence, it’s a good idea to take a blank reference shot that marks the beginning, so you can find it when editing.

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