In Season: Persimmons

Consider yourself lucky if you have a tree of these versatile and underrated beauties in your garden

Ifirst discovered persimmons while living in Italy. Known as kaki, from the Latin name Diospyros kaki, the unripe orange-coloured fruit were unpleasantly astringent and inedible, but left until the skin turned a deep orange-red and the flesh softened and transformed into an apricotcoloured glistening jelly, they were sensuous and sweet like honey. We ate them chilled served on plates and scooped out the pulpy jelly with spoons. This type of persimmon (Hachiya persimmon), is now mostly referred to as an old-fashioned variety.

Apart from eating kaki persimmon as a rich treat, they can also be frozen. Freeze the fruit whole and let it soften for a few minutes before slicing off the top to reveal an instant sorbet or scrape up the pulp with a fork to form granita. Alternatively, briefly run hot water over frozen persimmons and peel like an apple (hold persimmons with tongs for protection).

Non-astringent persimmons are markedly different. The most common commercially grown crop in New Zealand is Fuyu. The fruit is smaller and flatter in shape, and less tannic. Fuyu and other non-astringent varieties are ready to eat when the skin changes from pale orange to deep coral, while the flesh is still crisp. While either sort of persimmon can be picked unripe and left to ripen in the fruit bowl, Fuyu will turn to mush if left until soft.

Fuyu are hard and best sliced or cut into wedges. The skin is edible so there’s no need to peel them, and as they don’t discolour after cutting they can be prepared ahead, cut into wedges and slipped into a lunch box. They are sweet, though not excessively so, similar to firm melon, and crunchy. Kids love them as a snack, which is great as they contain more dietary fibre than apples, plenty of vitamin A and C and a range of healthy minerals.

Persimmon grow in most regions of New Zealand although they produce a higher yield in warmer climates. While non-astringent varieties are more versatile, it would be a shame to lose the old-fashioned variety. If you are considering planting a persimmon tree in the garden, perhaps plant one of each type so you can enjoy some crisp like an apple, and others gorgeously soft and sweet. As with figs, you’ve got to get them before the birds, so draping a tree with netting is wise.

USE THEM SAVOURY…

Fuyu are a great addition to a salad, adding colour, crunch and a hint of sweetness but avoid ingredients that are tannic or astringent, as even non-astringent varieties have some degree of tannin: too much mint, spinach leaves, or even yoghurt, can upset the balance, especially if the persimmons are barely ripe.

One of my favourite winter salads is a bowl of rocket, watercress and mixed salad leaves, with a little witloof or radicchio if available, and chopped persimmon. Toss with a vinaigrette of raspberry vinegar, extra virgin olive oil and seasonings. You can add a little basil and a handful of toasted pine nuts to the salad bowl and a dab of mustard to the dressing.

A salad of sliced persimmons with a lemony dressing and a handful of pomegranate seeds is pretty on the eye and lovely with roast duck or chicken. Or combine halved juicy mandarin segments with sliced persimmons, salad leaves and toasted flaked almonds.

Staying with the nut theme, thinly slice unpeeled persimmons on a mandoline, arrange on plates in mounds with thinly sliced feta or goat’s cheese, garnish with edible flowers and toasted chopped hazelnuts and drizzle with a lemony vinaigrette. Walnuts are harder to pair with persimmons as the skin is tannic.

Peeled persimmon segments can be sizzled in butter with spices such as ginger, cardamom and coriander seeds and served as a fruity accompaniment with roasts.

Or change out the spices to cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, sizzle in butter and serve with porridge or on toasted fruit bread or brioche first slathered with ricotta. Pan-fry the fruit quickly and keep it firm for both options.

… OR KEEP IT SWEET

Use persimmons as you would peaches in cakes, muffins and baking. Make quick tarts by arranging peeled sliced fruit on thinly rolled rounds of puff pastry, sprinkle with sugar and bake until the pastry is golden. Bubble up apricot jam in a pan, pass it through a sieve, thin with lemon juice and water and use hot to glaze tarts.

Spoon melted butter over halved persimmons, sprinkle with brown sugar or drizzle with maple syrup, sprinkle with spices and pour water and lemon juice around the fruit, cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil, baste, then grill until caramelised. Buon appetito!