DARIUSH LOLAIY

Cazador

Dariush is head chef and co-owner, with wife Rebecca, of game and wild-food restaurant Cazador, in Auckland. The couple shared their lockdown with two-year-old daughter Azar.

Dariush: Kleftiko is an old favourite for nostalgic reasons. It’s a dish that a Greek head chef of mine in London taught me. It’s also been a regular on the Cazador menu. We typically do it with wild goat but lamb is a perfect substitute. It’s easy to make, like many cuisines based around traditional, humble, peasant cooking. It’s just a combination of ingredients that a bit of love and a bit of time bring out. It’s a mid-season dish in the sense that, yes, it is a braise, which invokes those warming, wintry, hearty feelings. But it’s also a lighter braise; you’ve got the brightness of tomatoes and lemon, also feta and herbs, and we braise it in white wine, which keeps it light.

When it comes to entertaining, I like a meandering kind of meal. Something where we put together a few bits and pieces before people arrive so it’s not too much stress. That lends itself well to your Middle Eastern-style mezze or charcuterie platters, something low-maintenance to start where all the work is done early on in the day. That’s where the kleftiko comes in; it’s a joint of meat that takes care of itself. Close friends, perhaps a sherry to start, some local beers and something special wine-wise for the main. And a babysitter!

I found lockdown a positive time – being able to cook interesting things, baking, reading and exercise. There’s a handful of people who are full steam ahead, always thinking about food. But my creativity comes when I am living it rather than working it, just cooking on a whim.

We’re thinking we will keep Cazador food a premium dining experience so we’ve been concentrating on the new Cazador deli next door, which is now fully open. We have been selling hampers with our house-cured charcuterie, pickles, cheeses, condiments and so forth, and that has kept us very busy.

The thing I most looked forward to after lockdown? Having dinner at mum’s house!