JULIE BIUSO

A constant provider for cooks in times of need, when it comes to this herb a little goes a long way

In Season: Rosemary

Lamb and rosemary is a muchloved combination – the smell of cooking juices running over a rosemary-studded leg of lamb as it roasts is a hunger-inducer – but why it works may not be top of mind. Rosemary is resinous, pine-like and assertive, with more than a whiff of camphor (it contains less than 0.5 per cent, but it’s powerful). It adds a savoury note that contrasts with the sweet taste of lamb while its pungency kills off any rank notes present in the fat. Bingo! A great result.

Rosemary originated in the Mediterranean region, and perhaps that’s why it goes with so many dishes from countries whose shores are washed by the Mediterranean sea. Colloquially, it’s known as ‘mist of the sea’ because of the silvery hue on the underside of the leaves. That heritage makes it a good choice for coastal gardens as it can tolerate dryness, though it likes to be in free-draining soil, and it doesn’t mind salty sea air. Its flowers – blue, mauve-blue, pinkish or white – bring bees to the garden. Rosemary is part of the mint family, which includes lavender, thyme and oregano, and grows happily alongside these plants, but listen to me giving gardening advice as if I am an expert. Quite the contrary; I only need to look at a rosemary plant and it curls up and dies. That’s probably because I over-pick it in my haste to have fresh rosemary in everything bar my morning eggs (though I don’t see why that wouldn’t work). The answer lies in letting a new plant establish itself before hacking into it.

HERB OF CHOICE

Grow it, or buy it, rosemary is one of the essential herbs cooks like to have. Fresh is best because its small pointy leaves become spiky and brittle when dry. It is better cooked to mute its pungency and camphor-like medicinal scent, though just a smidgin of raw rosemary added to vegetable purées – think parsnip, swede, carrot and fennel – and fluffy white bean purées and lentils, and gutsy dressings for vegetables or meats, can add a beguiling scent. It can be used generously and to great effect on a barbecue or grill to provide rosemary-scented smoke. Woody stems can be used as skewers for kebabs. Let the stems harden off for several days before using.

Rosemary is also a great base ingredient, added early on when you're cooking sauces, stews and soups, with onions, garlic, carrots and other vegetables.

It can be used to great effect in breads such as focaccia, pide and sourdough, and in flatbreads and crackers, but remember the rule is, less is more, lest it become overpowering. Finely chopped and added to soft butter with sea salt and black pepper, then chilled, it will melt and season a steak as it cooks in a grill pan or on a barbecue.

It loses its bright green colour soon after chopping. That doesn’t matter if it’s going to be cooked for some time with other ingredients but if you are wanting to simply swish a bunch of ingredients with it in a pan, or to scatter it through roasted or sautéed potatoes, keep small leaves whole, or chop just before using. It’s best to add it towards the end of cooking so it stays supple and doesn’t become dry and sharp.

A SPRIG THAT DELIVERS

Rosemary adds a savoury note to sweet dishes. Try a small sprig infused in a sugar syrup with a few strips of lemon rind and slivers of ginger when poaching pears. A sprig sizzled in browning butter is gorgeous with a slice of cake or gingerbread accompanied by a dollop of crème fraiche. Come summer, try it with white-fleshed nectarines or peaches, sizzled together, and served with roast chicken.

There are many claims made about rosemary (that it’s an antioxidant, may prevent brain ageing, is anti-inflammatory and aids digestion), but perhaps the most enduring claim is that it helps with memory. It certainly is the ‘herb of remembrance’ used in commemorative ceremonies. Small sprigs are often handed out at funerals for attendees to place on a coffin.

It’s a herb we should all remember when we want to fill the kitchen with tempting savoury aromas, whether it be from roasted meats or vegetables, slow-cooked dishes of beans or poached fruits, or from that other great combination, garlic, chilli and rosemary sizzling in butter or olive oil, to serve with fish, meats, pasta and vegetables.