Michael Meredith

Three years after closing award-winning fine-dining establishment Merediths, chef Michael – with longtime partner Claire Baudinet – has opened restaurant Mr Morris in Auckland’s Britomart precinct. He tells why it’s a whole new approach.

dish

It’s been a while between restaurants... why was this the right time start up again? Michael:

When you’re on your own, running a business and cheffing, you get burnt out. So I felt it was time for me to stop. And I’ve been fortunate enough to spend time watching [twoand-a-half-year-old daughter] Frankie grow up. But I love the creativity part of being a chef and now I feel I am ready to work a little differently.

Why the move away from fine dining? Michael:

People are going out more these days and regardless if it’s casual or fine dining it’s about creating a memorable experience. The food at Mr Morris won’t be as technique-driven. It’s a great spot, in the heritage building where Cafe Hanoi was, with an open kitchen and a fire around a chef’s bar. It will be like being in someone’s home; comfortable but sophisticated. It’s not that fine dining doesn’t have a place. We went to Sid at The French Café a couple of days ago; I hadn’t been there since Sid [Sahrawat] took over. It was nice to see the formalities of that higher level, the detail. But people can’t always take that much time, so we want to take a bit of formality out but still keep the service part of it.

Why the name, and why that location? Michael:

Mr Morris is named after a family member who passed away; we wanted to honour and remember him. It is an exciting space, you’ve got some good operators down there: Kingi, Amano, Cafe Hanoi, Hotel Britomart. We saw an opportunity to be part of that.

Can you talk us through the menu? Michael:

We have always been inspired by different flavours and cultures. We’re not focusing on a style; the key thing is it’s delicious. It’s all about championing hero ingredients and focusing on local, ethical and seasonal. We’re lucky to have Fabio Bernardini [head chef at Merediths] back

How do you and Claire complement one another as business partners? Michael:

Claire brings that business reality check! She has the marketing side too. She handles a lot of the back of house details but it’s great to have her support and feedback, her business savvy. Sometimes you have a dream or a vision, but you can get obsessed focusing on a small part that may or may not be relevant. Having someone close to you who’ll say ‘hey, you’re getting carried away there; pull back!’ – that’s so valuable.

How has your cooking style evolved over the years? Michael:

As a young chef you want to show more technique, to be creative.

You don’t understand simplicity until you go through years of cooking, and it is the key. It comes down to trusting the ingredients and trusting yourself. It’s about having less technique and more flavour. But there’s still innovation in it. It’s always about combinations; there are some things you don’t think will pair well but you don’t know until you try it.

What’s your idea of a relaxed/ rewarding Kiwi holiday? Liz:

Exploring places you’ve never been, reading a book with no distractions and connecting with family. Having the time to share good food and conversation with the ones you love is priceless.

What are some things you always take away with you? Liz:

I always take a book or three! I love my coffee too; we have a compact De’longhi machine for the boat that takes fresh beans so I’ll always pack my fave Espresso Workshop blend. I also take my skincare (Margaret Hema) to keep my skin well hydrated while out at sea. Then a good bottle of olive oil, fresh herbs and lemon, and a bottle of Scapegrace gin are things I always have on board. I love my chocolate, too; Whittaker’s Dark Almond is a fave with a good cup of peppermint tea before

What will always be in your picnic hamper / chilly bin? Liz:

Good cheese, fresh fruit and almonds, Proper crisps and a big bottle of water.

What are you most looking forward to this summer? Liz:

Beautiful weather, friends and family get-togethers, reading more books, and summer food.

What do you like to cook on the boat? Liz:

Really simple things like barbecues and salads. I love to add pomegranate and fennel and use good olive oil and herbs. My family’s tradition is a simple