JULIE BIUSO

From comforting curries to decadent dips, there are a million and one ways to use this humble autumn hero

In season: pumpkin.

Squash belong to the Cucurbitaceae family and produce edible fruit which we prepare as a vegetable. Winter squash – we know these as pumpkin – have hard skins or rinds, enabling them to be stored. Summer squash have softer skins and shorter shelf lives.

Grey-skinned crown pumpkin is the most readily available pumpkin. Its striking dense orange flesh has comparatively low water content. This makes it suitable for roasting, layering in pies and adding to stuffings and salads. Its flavour is slightly sweet and earthy.

Crown pumpkins are long keepers, though it’s essential to leave a good piece of vine stalk attached to prevent rot from forming. Whole pumpkins can be stored in a dry place for several months.

Buttercup pumpkin is a smaller, greenskinned pumpkin, often with stripes or ridges, and with paler, softer flesh. It is best dry-baked or roasted to dry off moisture and concentrate the flavour. The skin develops crisp edges and a gorgeous nutty flavour which contrasts with its soft sweet flesh.

To bake buttercups whole, prick all over with a skewer and bake at 200°C in an oven tray for 30 minutes, or until barely tender. Increase heat to 220°C. When the pumpkin is cool enough to touch, cut out a cap from the top and scoop out seeds and fibre. Scoop out some of the flesh, and the flesh from the cap, chop and mix with bolognese sauce, or vegetables in a homemade tomato sauce or cauliflower cheese or something similar, and pile back into the pumpkin (mixture should be loose so that it is juicy after cooking). Top with parmesan and crumbs, and bake for 10 minutes in until golden brown.

Butterkins are medium-sized round pumpkins with a deep orange skin and sweet, medium-firm orange flesh. Prepare and bake whole as for buttercup pumpkin. Cut in half, remove seeds and stringy matter, and season flesh with salt and pepper. Sizzle pine nuts, rosemary and crushed garlic in butter, add a handful of halved cherry tomatoes and sprinkle with allspice and a pinch of ground cinnamon, or a few pinches of ras el hanout. Spoon into cavities. Smother with parmesan and bake at 200°C for 20 minutes until golden.

Butternut pumpkin has a thinner skin than crown and buttercup pumpkins and is particularly sweet and nutty. The flesh is not as dense as that of a crown pumpkin, but it’s drier than buttercup pumpkin flesh. Cut lengthwise, scoop out seeds, rub with oil or melted butter, season and cook cut side down in a shallow tray at 180°C until tender. Turn halves over and serve as is, or pile with canned beans, bolognese sauce or a vegetable mix, top with cheese and grill. Butternut pumpkin also roasts well but keep the slices on the chunky side.

Spaghetti squash is a large, tender-skinned yellow squash that has a unique texture after cooking. Cut in half and scoop out seeds. Place squash halves cut-side down in a shallow roasting tin and bake at 190°C for 25 minutes, until nearly tender. Remove from oven and immediately turn over the slices or they will continue softening. Rake a fork through the flesh. It will form long strands – hence the name “spaghetti squash”. Drizzle with browned butter and sage, and serve as a hot vegetable.

There is a wide range of small squash such as pattypan (scallopini), gem and minikin. These can be cut up and steamed, stir-fried or roasted; halved, buttered or oiled, seasoned and topped with chopped herbs then roasted, or roasted whole.

Pumpkin skin is safe to eat, but it needs a scrub to free it of dirt and the knife and board need to be kept clean during preparation. Removing the skin from a raw pumpkin is hard. Steam or bake it first, then scoop the flesh off the skin before carrying on with the recipe. For a dry purée (for stuffed pasta or pies), steaming is preferable to cooking in water. All pumpkins need to be refrigerated after cutting. If mould appears be vigilant about its removal.

Roasted pumpkin makes a good dip. Mash then sieve to catch fibre and mix in some garlic and cumin sizzled in some oil and chopped mint or coriander.

Pumpkin makes a fabulous addition to a vegetable curry. Crown pumpkin is best because it holds together well.

Pumpkin soup is a popular winter tradition. While a base of softened onion, garlic and rosemary makes a delicious soup, it mixes well with vegetables such as corn, red peppers, spinach, green beans and kumara. Enrich it with coconut cream, spices, lime juice and top with fried chilli prawns and coriander.