Dior’s clas­sic eau gets a thor­oughly mod­ern makeover

ELLE (Australia) - - Beauty -

In a world where more than 1,000 new scents land on our shop shelves ev­ery year, the con­cept of a clas­sic is get­ting harder to come by. There are only a se­lect few fra­grances that inspire the kind of pas­sion­ate de­vo­tion of 1947’s Miss Dior. But even icons can ben­e­fit from a lit­tle tweak here and there.

This month, Dior has given its very first scent, in the fa­mous hound­stoothed, bow-clad bot­tle, a re­spect­ful makeover. “It’s a dif­fer­ent way of work­ing than if you’re creat­ing some­thing that is brand new,” ex­plains Dior’s mas­ter per­fumer François Demachy. “On one hand, you’re work­ing on the leg­end. On the other, you have this frame­work that pro­vides the ori­en­ta­tion. We mostly changed the bal­ance be­tween the in­gre­di­ents and the notes, re­moved some and added oth­ers. The rose is still there of course – it’s the flower of love, the best il­lus­tra­tion of fem­i­nin­ity and has been Miss Dior’s prin­ci­pal in­gre­di­ent from the be­gin­ning.”

Since Miss Dior is a fra­grance that’s al­ways been in­spired by a youth­ful, re­bel­lious spirit (it was a fresh, green chypre when most eaus were pow­dery af­fairs, the kind you dabbed at your neck when you had a gen­tle­man caller), it’s fit­ting that even at 70, she has the op­por­tu­nity to re-en­er­gise.

It’s that same en­ergy that’s cur­rently puls­ing through the fash­ion house. With a woman at the helm for the first time in the brand’s 70-year his­tory, artis­tic di­rec­tor Maria Grazia Chi­uri has been cham­pi­oning a fem­i­nist re­vival, a call to arms and a cel­e­bra­tion of the fem­i­nin­ity and spirit of women. “The idea is to be closely in har­mony with Maria Grazia’s fash­ion and way of be­ing. It’s fresh­ness with per­son­al­ity,” says Demachy. “In ear­lier ver­sions of Miss Dior, there was a greedy or ed­i­ble note that was very ob­vi­ous. The flo­ral notes lacked smooth­ness, which is some­thing you have in Maria Grazia’s col­lec­tions.”

In a prac­ti­cal sense, those tweaks mean that or­ange, man­darin and jas­mine have been re­placed with the spicy sweet­ness of berg­amot, rose­wood and pink pep­per­corn. “The Miss Dior woman is ethe­real, trans­par­ent. She is gen­uine, forth­right, frank and di­rect,” says Demachy. “It’s a very grace­ful fem­i­nin­ity but, at the same time, she packs a punch.” Time to put up your dukes.

Miss Dior EDP, $240 for 100ml, Dior, (02) 9295 9059; out Septem­ber 2

GAR­DEN PARTY Cel­e­brat­ing the launch of Miss Dior in Grasse, France

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