the makeup rev­o­lu­tion starts here

The beauty land­scape is chang­ing – and it’s cus­tomers who are the ones trans­form­ing it

ELLE (Australia) - - Contents -

Beauty is now tak­ing cen­trestage on the run­way.

Imag­ine a fash­ion house’s mind­set chang­ing so fan­tas­ti­cally that the big­gest shows are be­ing used as a stage not just for their new-sea­son col­lec­tions, but as a chance to show­case the lat­est beauty of­fer­ings, too. Rather than merely com­ple­ment­ing the de­sign as­pect of fash­ion week, beauty is now tak­ing a front-row seat.

Lead­ing the way is cre­ative and im­age di­rec­tor of Chris­tian Dior Makeup Peter Philips, who’s been help­ing to foster the brand’s mod­ern aes­thetic since 2014. Each sea­son, he launches his lat­est cre­ations on the faces of mod­els walk­ing the run­way. We see the makeup, want the makeup, then we can buy the makeup. So why is this sim­ple strat­egy so dis­rup­tive? Be­cause it fi­nally puts us – the peo­ple who buy makeup – first. “I cre­ate prod­ucts that will give the same re­sult in re­al­ity as they do on the run­way,” he says. “Now, the big­gest trend on the cat­walk is makeup it­self – not a spe­cific colour or look, but the prod­uct and how you use it to ex­press your­self.”

If you’re a beauty edi­tor lucky enough to find your­self back­stage at the ex­clu­sive Dior shows, then you’ll be im­mersed in a frenzy of mod­els In­sta­gram­ming new prod­ucts as ev­ery­one scram­bles to see Philips’ lat­est ge­nius. This is where the trends are cre­ated and the lat­est in­no­va­tions stake the lime­light. “Hav­ing ex­per­tise in back­stage makeup for the past 20 years has had an im­pact on what I cre­ate as prod­ucts – the first Dior­show mas­cara was born back­stage – but quite of­ten my vi­sion is led by what peo­ple need,” Philips says. “For ex­am­ple, the new Dior­show Pump’n’vol­ume mas­cara was cre­ated so I could quickly do a lay­ered­lash look and it could be re-cre­ated at home.” (We’ve tried it: you squeeze the rub­ber in­dents at the bot­tom of the tube to soften the for­mula and evenly coat the mas­cara’s spoolie, then you run it through your lashes once for a dense, full look. It works.)

But why are fash­ion houses cre­at­ing con­sumer­friendly prod­ucts first and let­ting the trends fol­low suit? In an era of live stream­ing and so­cial me­dia, our con­sump­tion of fash­ion shows and beauty looks is rapidly de­vel­op­ing. We now have im­me­di­ate ac­cess to the run­way and we don’t want to wait six months for the looks to per­co­late into a spe­cific, us­able prod­uct. This has forced brands to con­sider how they can make their beauty of­fer­ings more com­mer­cially ac­ces­si­ble, faster. Burberry and Tom Ford made their SS17 makeup col­lec­tions avail­able on e-com­merce sites and in shops im­me­di­ately fol­low­ing their shows, while Top­shop al­lowed con­sumers to buy its lat­est beauty of­fer­ings via a pop-up stall dur­ing Lon­don Fash­ion Week.

Nat­u­rally, sales of a prod­uct rise when it’s made avail­able for pur­chase dur­ing the hype sur­round­ing it. When Ken­dall Jen­ner wore Rouge Dior lip­stick in Poi­son Matte dur­ing the Dior AW16-17 show, it was a sell-out suc­cess. When we see in­spi­ra­tional beauty, we want to re-cre­ate it, and if the ex­act prod­uct is for sale, then we’re go­ing to buy it.

The gap be­tween run­way and re­tail is clos­ing. Makeup is be­com­ing an in­creas­ingly im­por­tant side of the fash­ion busi­ness, so be­ing an early adopter is more im­por­tant than ever. For some brands, this will mean a change to the pro­duc­tion cal­en­dar – but if you can see some­thing, fall in love with it and buy it straight away, then surely that’s a win-win for ev­ery­one. All prod­ucts by Dior, (02) 9295 9059

Dior Ad­dict Lac­quer Stick in Tease, $53

Diorskin For­ever Per­fect Cush­ion, $93

Rouge Dior Dou­ble Rouge in Matte Metal, $53

Dior Ad­dict Lip Sugar Scrub, $49

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