SAVING FACE
How to fight back against complexion pollution.
ULTRAVIOLET (UV) LIGHT FROM THE SUN has long been deemed skin’s worst enemy, wreaking havoc on a cellular level, resulting in fine lines, pigment gone wild and potentially even skin cancer.
But experts warn of another stealth skin saboteur: pollution. City dwellers can already see they’re constantly surrounded (think of that incessant layer of soot lining your windowsills), but what’s even more alarming is that the particulate matter suspended in the air enters the skin, attacks cell DNA and, over time, causes wrinkles, dryness, inflammation and uneven tone.
“Pollution microparticles are 20 times smaller than your pores, so they easily infiltrate the skin,” says Nyc-based dermatologist Dr Dendy Engelman.
Digital light pollution – blue light emitted from your phone, tablet or computer – is also a threat. This high-energy visible light (HEV light) causes free-radical damage, as UV light does, but penetrates the skin more deeply than UVA or UVB wavelengths.
“HEV destroys the DNA of skin cells and leads to premature ageing and cellular
death,” says Dr Barbara Sturm, an aesthetic doctor based in Düsseldorf, Germany, whose Anti-pollution Drops are a cult favourite.
The good news: you can bolster your skin’s natural defences. Here’s how to do it…
CREATE A PROTECTIVE FORCE FIELD WHEN YOU WAKE UP
The first step in your AM routine: apply an antioxidant serum “to bind to free radicals and keep them from causing cellular damage”, says Dr Engelman.
Next, block particles, as well as digital light, with a product designed to “form a semi-permeable membrane that protects pores from getting infiltrated”.
As the final step in your routine, use a mineral sunscreen to deflect UV as well as HEV. “Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide act like tiny shields on the skin’s surface against a broad spectrum of light,” says Dr Engelman.
AT NIGHT, REMOVE TOXINS FROM THE SKIN’S SURFACE
Don’t skip washing your face before bed and consider a facial brush to help achieve a deeper clean. “Ultrasonic devices loosen up pollution particles from the pores, so they can be easily removed,” says Dr Engelman. Wipe away residual debris with a cotton pad soaked in micellar water or toner. Follow that with an antioxidantrich purifying mask a few times a week; or opt for a charcoal formula if you have an oilier complexion. “Activated charcoal helps clear out superficial toxins before they can do serious damage,” explains Dr Engelman.
REPAIR DNA DAMAGE WHILE YOU SLEEP
According to Beverly Hills dermatologist Dr Ronald L Moy, undoing even some of the damage caused by toxins, digital light and UV rays can improve skin.
His skincare line, DNA Renewal, harnesses the power of DNA repair enzymes, derived from plankton, blue algae and mustard greens.
To detox from the inside out, Moy recommends a daily dose of vitamin B3 (aka niacinamide), which has been “shown in studies to boost DNA repair and lessen signs of ageing as well as decrease the potential for skin cancer”.
And as always, aim for quality sleep each night. “When your circadian rhythm isn’t operating at peak condition, you’re damaging your skin’s ability to protect and heal itself,” he explains.