TBILISI, GEORGIA 164
WE’VE LONG BEEN INTRIGUED BY GEORGIA: for its location at the crossroads of Europe and Asia; its history in the Soviet Union and its eclectic architecture that ranges from Moorish to Modernist. The country’s cuisine also remains a mystery. Bowl of elarji, anyone? (That’s cornmeal and cheese.)
While the region’s Caucasus mountains, thermal sulphur baths and vineyards have been attracting visitors for millennia, it’s the recent evolution of the country’s capital that is catching the world’s attention. Former factories are becoming design studios, and young, exciting creative talent is positively thriving: case in point – Georgian-born Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s creative director and founder of hip fashion brand Vetements.
Here’s how to experience the vibrancy of this burgeoning design hotspot for yourself (before heading to those mineral-rich thermal spas for some essential revitalisation)…
A hotbed of culture and edgy design, this is the year to hit the newest fashion capital
DO
For architecture spotting, try a wander down Chonkadze Street to see the city’s best Art Nouveau buildings, then walk across the Led-lit Bridge of Peace, looking out for the traditional houses that hang over the river’s edge. Continue your stroll with a trip to the concrete Wedding Palace, a registry office built in 1984 that resembles a Georgian medieval church. Visit the Museum of
Modern Art (momatbilisi.ge) to get a feel for the city’s creative energy.
After all that walking, you deserve a trip to Abanotubani, a district in the Old Town where you’ll find a whole street of traditional public bathhouses that make use of the local hot springs. As evening falls, head to Fabrika (fabrikatbilisi.com), a multi-purpose art and design hub with thriving studios, exhibition spaces, cafes and an open-air bar that hosts pop-up yoga classes and late-night music.
SHOP
For seriously cool fashion buys and a curated mix of local and international brands, hit Chaos Concept Store (chaosconceptstore.com), located in a beautifully restored factory, or N-duo
Concept (n-duo-concept.com). For a furniture fix, head to Studio 995 (@studio995) for vintage pieces and design classics – you’ll be tempted by the mid-century modern armchairs.
EAT
Khash, a local offal soup, is Culinariumkhasheria’s (@culinarium_khasheria) speciality, but it also offers “refined hangover food” and excellent coffee.
Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world and Tbilisi has plenty of bars where you can try its produce. Head to 8000 Vintages (8000vintages. ge) in the Saburtalo district, where charcuterie and cheese is also on offer.
For dinner, try the old-fashioned fare at Keto and Kote, or Ezo (@instaezo) for an inventive take on classic Georgian ingredients, such as a salad made from the fruit of the native jonjoli shrub.
STAY
A haunt of intellectuals and bohemians since the 20th century, the historic neighbourhood of Vera features tree-lined boulevards and views down to the Kura river. It’s here that Stamba Hotel (stambahotel.com) has opened in a former publishing house built in the Soviet era. Dive into the rooftop swimming pool, wallow in the brass baths in the rooms and eat at the Art Deco-style restaurant.
Close by (and redeveloped by the same design team) is Rooms Hotel (roomhotels.com), with walls clad in 150-year-old reclaimed oak and lashings of 1930s New York glamour (think leather armchairs and marble sinks).
Both hotels are at the heart of contemporary culture in Tbilisi – they host regular exhibitions and support artistic residencies. Stamba Hotel recently opened an in-house art studio and co-working space, should you wish to do a stint in Tbilisi as a digital nomad.