SMOOTH TALKING: THE POLITICS OF SKINCARE

TRUST “EXPERT” INFLUENCERS BUT BEWARE OF BRANDS. INVEST IN SCIENCE, BUT SUPPORT DISRUPTORS. HAS SKINCARE EVER BEEN MORE CONTROVERSIAL?

The controversial side of influencer marketing.

IT USED TO BE THAT people could get on with their daily cleanse, tone and moisturise without anyone batting an eyelid. But with improvements in research, the growth of social media and – let’s be honest – savvy marketing, skincare has become big business. Research by Cosmetics Europe shows that 74 per cent of makeup users now consider skincare their main aesthetic focus, and 37 per cent of women are shopping for dermatologist-recommended skincare. “Visits to the skincare section of our website are 60 per cent higher than last year,” says Kate Morris, CEO and founder of Australian e-tailer Adore Beauty. Data shows that customers are researching ingredients according to their individual skin type, with “retinol” and “vitamin C” now among Mecca’s top customer search terms. The hashtag #skincareaddiction – usually tagged against a snap of a product purchase – is up 55 per cent on last year, according to Trending Talks, and the ever-debated #pmroutine (double cleansing vs 10 steps, among others) is up a staggering 214 per cent.

Not content with super serums and regimented routines, we're also turning to gadgets and tools to up our game. The industryleading microneedling tool GLOPRO sold out at launch, making over $5 million in 24 hours, and its parent company reported sales pushing $140 million in 2018. According to Morris, Adore Beauty has also seen a significant upswing in the interest around microneedling tools, a skincare device that, until recently, was largely obscure to the average consumer. “Two years ago we were selling hardly any derma rollers and now we sell thousands every month,” she says. It's clear consumers are a lot savvier when it comes to skincare, which is a good thing. But with all of this information comes a lot of noise and strong opinions, often unqualified. So who to trust? And what to believe? Read on…

EXPERT VS “EXPERT” With more than 37 million #skincare posts on Instagram, it's one of the most talked about subjects on the platform. “Instagram is a game changer for the beauty industry,” says Dr Barbara Sturm, an aesthetic doctor specialising in molecular cosmetics. “But it can pass along uninformed and even dangerous rumours, and perpetuate fads and myths.” Anyone can claim to be an “expert” – and it's difficult to know who to trust, warns dermatologist Dr Harold Lancer: “I've seen many influencers position themselves as skincare ‘experts'. What concerns me is consumers are taking these individuals' advice over that of trained professionals.”

Of course some influencers are reliable, but remember that calling yourself a “skincare expert” requires zero qualifications, whereas an aesthetician is trained and certified to analyse and treat the skin, and a dermatologist or anyone with doctor in their title will (or should) have a specialist medical degree. If your favourite guru isn't medically trained, it doesn't necessarily mean they're wrong, but if you see an #ad, #spon or #partner involved, consider the money changing hands in return for the “advice”.

TREND VS TRIED & TESTED One minute we're falling for face oils, a minute later they're your skin's worst enemy. Products fall in and out of fashion faster than, well, fashion. And you can barely pick up a bar of soap without someone having an opinion on it. “Increased awareness of ingredients is great,” says dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting, “but some skincare trends – facial oils, for example – can, in some cases, make problems worse.” Our genes, diet, environment, age and hormones, among many other factors, affect our skin differently, so there's no universally right answer.

The best advice we can give is to do your research, then research some more. In-store cosmetics counters are liberal with their samples, as are online retailers (for example, Sephora and Mecca offer a pick'n'mix sample service at checkout). If you have sensitive skin, make sure you patch test any product that's a little more active than you're used to, and when trying something new, strip the rest of your routine back, so you get clear feedback on what your skin thinks of it.

SPLURGE VS SAVE The past few years have seen the rise of the “disruptor brands” coming in to undercut the big dogs with their promises of quality products at much lower prices: think Frank Body and Deciem, the latter whose brand The Ordinary promises “clinical formulations with integrity”. Late founder Brandon Truaxe previously worked in analysis for a cosmetics giant and was disgruntled by the huge mark-ups. The Ordinary's products are effective, yet prices are kept low through using simple packaging and modest marketing.

Consumers are holding brands more accountable, whether it be for high prices, racial exclusivity or unsustainable practices. The @Estéelaundry Instagram account (with more than 57k followers) heralds itself as an “anonymous beauty collective airing the beauty industry's dirty laundry” and has made a habit of calling out overpriced formulations and marketing BS.

But that doesn't mean every expensive brand has been pulling an Emperor's New Clothes on you. Of course, sometimes you'll be paying for a designer brand name. But what might be absent from budget products is years of scientific research and formulas developed carefully over time. Instead of the price, look at the ingredients, their percentages (some “vitamin C” products actually have less than two per cent of the active ingredient) and if they're packaged in a way that protects the potency of what's inside (dark glass, for example, keeps products from oxidising).

HIGH VS LOW TECH LED masks, lasers and microneedling: we've all gone dotty for devices. But will they really give you an at-home facial? “It's great that the technology is more widely available,” says dermatologist Emma Wedgeworth, “but home devices are often five times less strong, so don't expect the same results as in-clinic treatments.” And is it really safe to be microneedling on yourself at home? “Used correctly, derma rollers can make a huge difference,” says facialist Teresa Tarmey, “but, at home, the needles should be less than 0.5mm, and don't buy from just anyone you find online – choose carefully.”

For those less keen on puncturing thousands of holes through their epidermis, the ancient jade roller has had a resurgence. However, there's not much conclusive proof to support claims of proper results. “It may reduce swelling,” says Wedgeworth, “but there's very little evidence.” Tarmey agrees, saying although they're a nice massage tool, she's not wholly convinced how much change you'll see in your skin.

The many conversations around skincare have always been heated. It is, after all, a business. We wouldn't endorse a product we didn't rate – whatever the brand – and when products don't deliver, they soon get found out. But when it comes to your own regime, your own purchases, your own skin? Read up when you want to, put your blinkers on when you don't. It needn't be so fraught when there are so many exciting innovations, brands and movements to be celebrated. In the end, all that matters is that you're kind to the skin you're in.