What to avoid

If it wasn’t good at rusting, it wouldn’t be entitled to wear that Escort badge. And the RS tag makes no difference – indeed, an overly rotten RS2000 is fit only for scrap. Begin your tinworm exploration underneath the car. The rear chassis rails corrode badly, as can floorpans ( front footwells, especially – peel back the carpets), boot floor, inner and outer sills – pay attention to what’s behind those side skirts. Inspect the A-pillars, inner wings, fusebox area and bulkhead, and be amazed if the battery tray isn’t rusty, even on an otherwise mint machine.

Similarly, it’s normal to find rot in the rear wheelarches, below the petrol cap, around the door seams and window seals, beneath the rear spoiler, around the tailgate, bonnet and pretty much anywhere else!

Most mechanical components aren’t terminal, but be extra vigilant if you’re looking at a 4x4. The transfer box is relatively weak, and needs oil changes every 10,000 miles; it can also fail if you run tyres with excessively mismatched treads front to rear, and it’s difficult to source a replacement ’box.

Make sure all four wheels turn, be wary of vibrations from the transmission ( especially at low speeds) and listen for nasty noises.

The RS2000’s MTX75 gearbox is tough but it’s not indestructible. Ensure all gears engage smoothly, paying particular attention to second-to-third synchro; third gear itself can be noisy if subjected to abuse; first and reverse were often notchy from new, especially when cold. Make sure there’s no oil dripping underneath, which can mean replacement of the output seals is in order.

You’ll also need to watch out for clutch slip, which can occur at low mileage if the car’s been hammered.

Engine-wise, head gasket failure is the biggest concern, although Ford revised the design early in the RS2000’s life. Be afraid of excessive steam from the exhaust or mayonnaise under the oil filler cap. Similarly, blue smoke means wornout piston rings, cylinder bores or valve stem seals.