THINGS TO LOOK FOR
If you’re buying any RS Turbo, be it a S1 or S2, you’ll need to make sure it’s the real thing. Faking a Series 2 is especially easy if based on a Mk4 XR3i, which was even available in the same colours. Replicas are fine if they’re priced realistically (many are based around bettercondition bodyshells than the real ones), but if you’re spending serious cash, check the VIN plate on the slam panel matches the stamps in the sill beside the driver’s seat (under a flap in the carpet) and what’s on the logbook. The VIN should read WF0BXXGCAB, followed by numbers that correspond with the engine code (also found on the cylinder block). If the VIN doesn’t tally, walk away.
RS Turbos also had different bodyshells from most other Escorts; including triple-skinned steel in the engine bay rather than the standard double-skin, factory-made drillings where the ECU bolts to the bulkhead, and longer rain gutters on the roof of the S1. Don’t forget, you’ll want to see the authentic tie-bar front suspension and an (Orion) anti-roll bar on the back of any S1, while any S2 should also have a rear anti-roll bar along with ABS (unless it’s been removed by a previous owner – if so, ensure it’s been done properly). Early non-Custom Pack S2 RS Turbos lacked a sunroof (they also had wind-up windows and lacked central locking). Look for a date sticker on the sunroof slider, which should tally with the car’s age.
RS Turbo trim is getting rare, so make sure the bodykit is present and correct (wheelarch extensions are often cracked), although some repro bits (such as towing eye covers and decals) are still readily available.
Likewise, tatty driver’s seats are common, so it’s not unusual to see a passenger-side Recaro in its place. And as for the dashboard, you’ll be lucky to find one without splits – good examples fetch a fortune.
RS Turbos built from September 1989 onwards are known as ‘90-spec, and are more desirable thanks to improved equipment; look for the wrapped-over rear spoiler, deeper front bumper, outline boot decal, Zolda cloth upholstery (grey with blue/red flecks), extended centre console, different dials, variable-speed intermittent wipers, rear courtesy light and plastic sill protectors.
Inner wings on ‘90-spec machines were altered too, along with revised coolant/ washer/brake fluid reservoirs; when retrofitted to an earlier shell, the later header tank sits at a weird angle.
Above all else, if you discover a clean, unmolested RS Turbo for a reasonable price, don’t hesitate to buy it. Values are only going one way. But if the RS Turbo you’ve seen turns out to be a fake, you’ve got two choices: run away, or pay a realistic (much lower) price. If it’s a good shell and you’re planning mods, it might even be a bonus…