Inking outside the box
Azra khamissa takes a rather unconventional approach to a traditional art form.
Azra Khamissa is an unusual kind of ‘slashie’ – one you most probably haven’t heard of before. Depending on when you catch her, the Dubai-based lady could be working as a chiropractor, bag designer or henna artist. “I guess there’s a focus on the hands in all my work,” Azra says. “That’s the common theme.” It’s her minimalist approach to henna design that has captured the world, though, landing her collaborations with top brands and packing out regular workshops for young people intrigued by her modern take on the ancient practice.
Henna, a plant-based dye, has been used since antiquity to adorn skin, hair and fingernails across North Africa, the Middle East and southern Asia. Traditionally, the temporary body art tends to feature intricate, ornate designs, chock-full of curls and incredibly minute details. But Azra – who’s lived between Toronto, Dubai and Melbourne in her 30 years – was drawn to a more contemporary style. Something very different to the henna traditions she experienced growing up.
“Henna is part of my culture – we’ve always done it in my family,” says Azra, a Canadian with South African-indian roots. “I’m especially close with my grandma, and she’s always loved it.” The dye was applied at weddings and celebrations throughout her childhood. Then, a couple of years ago, almost by accident, Azra started experimenting with her own designs, drawing a solid circle in the middle of her hand during Eid festivities. Posting it on Instagram, she was surprised by the glowing responses she received. So, she kept exploring.
Azra finds inspiration in unexpected places: the palm trees and desert near her Dubai home, geometry, lunar phases, and even human bones. “I studied anatomy as part of my chiropractic training, and we learnt how each joint and muscle moves,” she says. “I definitely still explore this – I recently applied dots of henna on every joint in the hand so you could see how each one has a function. Actually, I think using henna to teach anatomy is a great idea.” Applying henna is a meditative experience for Azra. She’ll experiment on her own skin late at night, once everything else she needs to do for the day is done and dusted, and she’s parked in front of Netflix. “It can take between 40 minutes and two hours, depending on the design,” she says, “but the planning can take a lot longer. It’s me time – it’s therapeutic and relaxing.”
Her favourite thing about henna, though, is the safe and uninterrupted space it provides for women. “Historically, it has always been a point of female connection,” she explains. “There’s this concept of henna as a women’s circle, and that’s why I love it.” Running regular workshops and pop-ups across Dubai is a personal highlight for Azra. “It’s really collaborative and people seem to enjoy themselves,” she says. “It’s a time for women to express themselves creatively, and that’s really important.”
The ladies who turn up come from many different backgrounds and have a whole host of tales about what henna means to them. “I love hearing the nostalgic stories women will share with me,” Azra says. “How it reminds them of their mothers or grandmothers, or perhaps how the tradition is practised – or not practised anymore – in their hometowns, and how that makes them feel.”
Azra is aware that her simple aesthetic may not be for everyone, though – especially older generations used to more traditional, elaborate floral prints. And she’s OK with that. “I think older people, including my grandma, think my work is too minimal and not intricate enough, but henna is really personal,” she says. “Occasionally, my grandma will really like one of my designs, and it makes me so happy – she’s a tough crowd.”