Gardening Australia

The easiest vegie patch

Two beds, two people, two hours, and less than a hundred bucks. What are you waiting for?

- words PHIL DUDMAN images PHOTOGRAPH­Y BY NATSKY

Setting up a vegie-growing area doesn’t have to involve strenuous digging or fancy beds. A spot of lawn can be transforme­d into a productive patch with just compost, mulch, fertiliser and newspaper. This is a no-dig garden, and it’s the easiest patch ever!

HOW NO DIG WORKS

Instead of digging out the grass (which is a horrible job), you smother it with a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard. This deprives the grass of sunlight and stops it growing. The barrier is topped with beautiful organic compost, which is your initial growing medium, and the paths between the beds are covered with low-cost tree loppers’ mulch. Hundreds of worms move in to feed on the compost, newspaper and rotting grass, creating deep channels in the soil (good for plant roots to follow) and leaving a trail of nutrient-rich castings. No-dig is the leisurely way to condition your soil.

I make all my beds this way, and the vegies thrive. Also, there are fewer weeds in a no-dig bed. This frees up my time for more planting and greater food production!

This no-fuss approach appealed to my friend Marie, who has been keen to get a patch up and running since she moved into her new house a year ago. Following the simple steps shown here, you too can make your vegie-growing dreams a reality.

STEP 1 Analyse the site

CHOOSE a spot for your patch that is close to your kitchen. Make sure it has plenty of sunshine, access to water, and good drainage. Your patch will also need protection from strong winds, which can be provided by surroundin­g vegetation or buildings. In Marie’s garden, we found that spot on the northern boundary of her west-sloping backyard, just near the back door. Before getting started, do some basic measuremen­ts to get a feel for the size and shape of the growing area your space can accommodat­e.

STEP 2 Sketch a plan

MAKE a simple drawing of your layout. You don’t need to do it to scale, but putting the measuremen­ts on the drawing will help when calculatin­g the materials you need. Marie and I agreed that two beds would be enough for her to manage initially. These would be 2.2m (2200mm) long and 1m (1000mm) wide. If you have a longer reach, you can make them wider. The paths surroundin­g the beds would be 50cm (500mm) wide. This allows enough space when planting or weeding. For paths where you need wheelbarro­w access, allow 75cm (750mm) or more.

STEP 3 Calculate the materials needed

WORK OUT the amount of compost and mulch you need for your patch, in cubic metres, using the following formula:

You’ll also need a big stack of newspaper and/or cardboard, measuring tape, 4 pegs, stringline, shovel, spade and steel rake.

VOLUME = area (length x width) x depth. The depth of the beds should be 15cm (0.15m) and the mulch paths 5cm (0.05m).

*Costs will vary. These costs are based on the pick-up price from Marie’s local supplier. Delivery costs are extra.

STEP 4 Mark the boundary

MARK OUT the boundary of your growing area and hammer a peg in each corner.

In a square or rectangle, the diagonal measuremen­ts should match. If they don’t, make adjustment­s, rechecking the side measuremen­ts. It doesn’t need to be perfect.

MOW the grass quite short over the growing area and just beyond. This will make it easier when you’re laying down the newspaper or cardboard. STRETCH a stringline tightly around the pegs to define the boundary.

STEP 5 Create an edge

CUT around the boundary, using the stringline as a guide. Vertically sink a spade into the soil about 10cm deep. Then, from the inside, plunge the spade into the cut at an angle to remove small sections of grass at a time, creating a channel about 10cm wide. It’s not necessary to install a solid edge to keep the grass out, but you can, if you like, now or when time and finances allow.

STEP 6 Smother the grass

FILL a tub with water, and submerge the newspaper for a minute or so to saturate it. This prevents it blowing away while it’s being laid down. If using cardboard, water it as you go.

COVER the entire growing area with newspaper, right up to the edge of the surroundin­g lawn. Lay it at least eight sheets thick, overlappin­g the edges generously. The idea is to create an impenetrab­le barrier to the grass.

STEP 8 Mulch the pathways

SPREAD mulch over the remaining areas to a depth of about 5cm.

STEP 7 Shape the beds

MARK OUT where the growing beds and paths will be in your patch, then bang in some pegs. Stretch a stringline between the pegs along the length of the beds. DROP IN some compost between the stringline­s, leaving the area for the paths clear. We used about five full barrow loads per bed. LEVEL the mounds of compost with a steel rake, and continue moving the material around until you’ve achieved a consistent shape and form for your beds. Keep in mind that the depth needs to be about 15cm, so add or remove compost if necessary.

STEP 9 Feed and water

ADD some nutrients to the growing beds. We used a combinatio­n of rock minerals and an all-purpose organic fertiliser blend, which were both spread at a rate of 1–2 handfuls per square metre.

RAKE and work the additives into the top 5cm of the compost layer.

WATER the beds well so the compost is soaked. To our delight, at this stage a big storm came along and did the job for us, while we enjoyed a cup of tea.

STEP 10 Plant it up

INSTALL a support for seasonal climbers such as peas and snow peas. We made a simple frame from split bamboo and string, which we tied onto a couple of hardwood stakes hammered into the ground. We positioned the support at the southern end of the bed so it won’t shade out the other vegies.

USE a large stick or rake handle to scribe the rows and make holes for the seed or seedlings. This makes planting out a quick and easy affair. Water your seedlings in well.

STAND BACK and admire your handiwork, then you can get started on planning your next no-dig installati­on project.

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