Small Yarra Valley winery the big noise at awards

THE Yarra Valley has dominated this year’s James Halliday Wine Companion awards, with the Victorian wine region taking out the three of the six major categories, including winery of the year.

The doyen of Australian wine experts last night crowned Mount Mary as his 2018 winery of the year.

Dappled Wines took out best new winery honours and the tight-knit family-run Boat O’Craigo was named the “dark horse” winery to watch at the annual gala dinner held at the NGV’s Great Hall.

Set up by the late John Middleton in 1971, Mount Mary is still family owned and run, with John’s son, David, chief executive and his grandson, Sam, the chief winemaker, a role he’s held since 2011.

“It’s a huge honour for us, we’re really rapt,” Sam said.

Famous with wine buffs for its single vineyard chardonnay, pinot and two Bordeaux blends known as the Quintet and Triolet, Mr Halliday praised the 2015 Mount Mary vintage across the board.

“The 2015 vintage in the Yarra Valley was, quite simply, great, and Sam took full advantage of it, making exquisite wines,” he said.

Having grown up on the Mount Mary property in Coldstream, Mr Middleton said wines and vineyards had been a part of his life for as long as he could remember.

“My grandfather believed that the Yarra was more suited to smaller boutique, high- quality makers better than bigger producers. It’s harder for smaller producers to stay current, but 45 years later this award is an indication of what we can achieve,” he said.

Mount Mary wines are sold for upwards of $90 for the Triolet, with good vintages of the Quintet and pinot up to $150 a bottle.

Mr Middleton said producing wines to such a level was expensive.

“Quality Australian wine is relatively cheap compared with France and the US,” he said.

As for the Yarra Valley as a wine region, Mr Middleton was confident it would increase its already high standing on the world stage.

Other winners include winemaker of the year Paul Hotker, of Bleasdale, in the South Australian region of Langhorne Creek. The $800 2012 Henschke Hill of Grace was named wine of the year, while best value winery went to South Australia’s Grosset, famed for its riesling.

The Halliday Wine Companion is on sale for $39.95.