From the Source
Chef Niven Patel showcases his farm-fresh produce at Thēsis Hotel Miami.
Ispoke with Chef Niven Patel just after he came in from harvesting vegetables from his at-home farm — yes, farm — known as Rancho Patel. Patel and his family grow 35-plus varieties of greens, fruits and vegetables in the area surrounding their Homestead, Florida, home. This produce then stocks his two on-site restaurants at Thēsis Hotel Miami, including the New American Orno, the island-minded Mamey and Mamey on 3rd, the hotel’s rooftop space.
With Mohamed Alkassar, Patel also runs Alpareno Restaurant Group, dedicated to empowering restaurant workers through camaraderie and teamwork as well as giving back to the local community. Alpareno opened
Orno at Thēsis Hotel Miami in October 2021 following Patel’s success at Mamey, previously opened at the property.
Named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2020, Patel’s role as family man extends beyond working Rancho Patel. Both his and his wife’s families hail from the Indian state of Gujarat; they welcomed twin daughters in June 2020.
WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND, ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? My guilty pleasure is pasta — any kind of pasta, but particularly pasta with a good amount of butter and Pecorino cheese. When I have that, life is good! On the other end of the spectrum is yellow mustard. I don’t understand the fascination; it’s assertive in flavor.
WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? I’d go back to my roots; there’s something special about a good, homecooked, Indian meal. Many people aren’t familiar with Indian cuisine, so I’d expose them to something different with a meal full of flavors and textures. There would be pakora, like vegetable fritters made with patra leaf, chickpeas and onion; and a basmati rice with yogurt sauce and curry leaf.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN?
I had to convince my family I wanted to go to culinary school. They were skeptical, so I prepared a seven-course meal for 10 family members. They loved it, and the rest is history.
IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? Seven years ago, I started a small garden in my backyard, and today it’s a full-on farm run by one farmer and my family. I’m all about the best, freshest ingredients and how to best highlight and showcase them. There’s nothing better than controlling what you bring into your restaurant. Right now, the dish on our menu that best highlights my style is a green chickpea hummus served with eggplant.
WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? I think it might already be disappearing, but the fascination with kale. Kale is good, but there are much better greens options!
MAMEY, ORNO
Thēsis Hotel Miami 1350 S. Dixie Highway Coral Gables, FL 33146 tel 305 667 5611 thesishotelmiami.com