Kicking Back: Mauritius
Delight in the hidden gem of the Indian Ocean.
Delight in the hidden gem of the Indian Ocean.
The Mascarene Islands (principally Mauritius, Rodrigues and Reunion), located in the Indian Ocean 400–500 miles east of Madagascar, initially benefited from remoteness. For millennia they evolved untouched by humans. When European nations set their sights on colonial expansion in Asia, the islands suddenly became strategically vital.
Modern Mauritius (which also includes Rodrigues and many smaller islands) is defined by that contested history. Through turbulent centuries it was ruled by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the French and then, from 1810 until independence in 1968, the British. These waves of settlers introduced their own flora and fauna; and unique local species, including the dodo, were wiped out.
At the same time, a distinct Mauritian identity emerged, with a population imported by the colonial powers from India, China and Africa. These diverse influences forged a language, Mauritian Creole, and a cuisine incorporating French specialties, curries, Chinese-style noodles and African root vegetables.
The main island of Mauritius measures approximately 40 miles long and 30 miles wide, covering an area of 790 square miles. You can see almost the entire island from the summit of Le Pouce (The Thumb), a mountain located immediately behind the capital city, Port Louis. The ascent follows along well-marked trails and proves relatively gentle until the last section, the so-called thumb. From the base of the thumb to the top is a strenuous 20-minute climb with sheer drops on both sides, but it provides the reward of a 360-degree
panorama.
Port Louis sits on the west coast of Mauritius, while the airport lies on the southeast, with tourist resorts scattered all around the island’s circumference. The majority of tourists never set foot in the capital city, though it is not without its attractions. The Central Market offers the perfect place to experience the island’s cultural kaleidoscope of color and aroma. At Blue Penny Museum you can view two of the world’s most valuable stamps, the Mauritius orangered and deep-blue, displayed for just 10 minutes every half-hour to limit their exposure to light.
The Natural History Museum provides an insight into the island’s original wildlife, including skeletons and reconstructions of the extinct dodo. Much of Mauritius is now given over to sugarcane plantations, but the 66-acre Île aux Aigrettes off the east coast provides an impression of what the main island used to be. The rare Mauritian pink pigeon thrives here, while introduced giant tortoises help to restore the natural habitat (extinct Mauritian giant tortoises played an important role in the germination of some plants and trees). You can also see the dodo here, albeit as a life-sized statue.
Beach holidays remain Mauritius’s biggest draw. Coral reefs protect much of the coast, providing excellent diving. The sheltered waters prove perfect for sailing and other watersports, while the palm-shaded, white-sand beaches offer the archetypal vision of paradise. The north coast, the liveliest area, centers on Grand Baie and offers plenty to do, day and night.
The town of Flic en Flac, boasting one of the best beaches, is an emerging tourist center and a popular Airbnb base. The upscale resorts of the east coast have a more getaway-from-it-all ambience. Despite centuries of human habitation and decades as a tourist destination, at heart Mauritius remains what it has always been: a remote island in the Indian Ocean.