The ‘new’ red flourishing in Hawke’s Bay

Syrah is having its moment in the sun – figuratively and literally – as it flourishes in Hawke’s Bay.

At the prestigious Air New Zealand Wine Awards in 2015 something almost unheard of happened. A Hawke’s Bay syrah (from Church Road Winery) was awarded Champion Wine of the Show. In the award programme’s 40-year history, syrah has only walked away with the top spot twice before, in 2007 and 2008.

Syrah is a relatively new and small varietal in New Zealand. There are only 300 hectares planted here, compared with around 18,000 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough alone. And if it wasn’t for the foresight of one Hawke’s Bay viticulturalist, Alan Limmer, there wouldn’t be any at all.

Back in the late 1970s, Hawke’s Bay was all orchards and sheep; there were very few vineyards at all. The ones that were there began to establish themselves by Cape Kidnappers, near the coast, or inland in what is now known as the Bridge Pa Triangle.

But it was on the grey, gravelly hills above Bridge Pa that Limmer saw opportunity where others saw dust. He purchased some land between a local drag strip and a quarry and established Stonecroft Wines. Alan Limmer recognised that the ancient river bed of Gimblett Gravels, bathed in sunlight with free-draining soil, would be perfect for cultivating certain varieties of red. He rescued some Syrah (also known as Shiraz) vines that had been imported from Australia for research and which were earmarked to be destroyed.

The Syrah grew wonderfully and Stonecroft’s first vintage in 1989 was roundly praised in New Zealand and overseas. It was this recognition that helped him to win a court battle with the local council and have Gimblett Gravels zoned for viticulture.

These days some of New Zealand’s most well known wine brands own acreage in Gimblett Gravels, due mostly to the quality of the syrah produced from that land – and those heritage vines.