Plant Fibre Fashion

As the war on synthetic fibres mounts and organic cotton production faces off against water resources/consumption, innovation in textiles brings good news for the fashion industry.

Meet the innovators leading the industry

You know a movement has hit mainstream when fast fashion chain H&M heads up a Global Change Award with the aim “to protect the planet”, and “thoughtful fashion” is the cover story of Australian Vogue. That’s a good thing. It’s heartening that sustainable fashion is finally gaining momentum.

‘Cause & effect’ is the title of actor Emma Watson’s Australian Vogue guest editor appearance, shot by Peter Lindbergh, in which she rightly states, “It is time to re-examine the fashion industry and the urgency for a healthier, more responsible system”. Watson also states, “It’s not enough for me anymore that it’s a beautiful piece – I want to know who made it and where it came from”. We would also add to that “and what it’s made of”. In March 2018 The Global Change Award saw a �1 million grant from the H&M Foundation split between five contenders to be used for product development: Crop-APorter – making sustainable bio-textiles by using leftovers from food crop harvests; Algae Apparel – turning algae into bio-fibre and eco-friendly dye that is also good for the skin; Smart Stitch – a dissolvable thread that makes repairing and recycling a breeze; The Regenerator – recirculating fashion into new textile fibre by separating cotton and polyester blends; and Fungi Fashion – custom-made clothes made from decomposable mushroom roots.

The public voting system provided the opportunity to influence the fashion industry and contribute to a more sustainable future. Its purpose, to spur early-stage innovations that can accelerate the shift from a linear to a circular fashion industry, with the aim of protecting the planet and our living conditions (see results globalchangeaward.com). At the Awards’ ceremony in Stockholm actress and sustainability influencer Chiling Lin wore a custom-made H&M evening gown made of orange fibre. The textile – 50 per cent silk, 50 per cent orange fibre – is the innovation of a previous Global Change Awards winner and the first fabric to be made from citrus juice byproduct.

This season, Danish brand Noa Noa produced the first of what will be a twice-yearly capsule collection ‘On This Note by Noa Noa’ using sustainable fibres that have been in development for several years. The new techniques have made it possible to create fabrics as soft as cashmere without harming the environment – corn fibres spun into billowing silky fabrics; banana leaves woven into strong, lightweight fabrics; and super soft soya bean protein fibre. The latter is also believed to have beneficial properties for the wearer – this is because soya bean fibre has a natural bacteria resistance, protects against the cold, and contains 16 amino acids in the fibres. Of course, it’s also biodegradable and Noa Noa ensure no pesticides are used in the growing of the fibres.

The corn (ingeo) fibre makes use of this widely grown agricultural product. The process includes fermentation to remove

the starch. This creates a texture like a paste that is cut, carded and combed into yarn, which can be woven into fabric.

There has been a long indigenous tradition of spinning banana fibres extracted by hand but now innovation has made it possible to give these ancient techniques modern production facilities, and a wider use. The banana fibres are collected from the plant and combed into a fibre and, after drying at 200°C for three hours, can be woven into a fabric in regular looms.

Examining the wonderful weave of Noa Noa’s banana fibre garments, one marvels at its tropical origin and the same can be said for B-Corporation certified ethical Wellington accessory brand Duffle & Co’s new range of pouches and laptop sleeves made from pineapple leaves, offering a vegan alternative to plastic. This sustainable and durable material is a byproduct of agriculture, which not only makes use of what was a waste product, but also provides a secondary income stream for farmers who otherwise rely on seasonal work. “The pineapple industry produces around 13 million tonnes of waste product every year so we are doing our bit to mitigate this,” says Duffle & Co creative director Freya Lewis.

“The raw material does not require any additional resources to grow and is free from pesticides and chemicals, meaning it does not harm people or the planet in the production process. A huge driver for our brand is working to support local communities around the world, who benefit from such a material. As we grow, we want to introduce more sustainable materials; we have used bamboo, hemp, organic cotton and recycled materials, and are now wanting to explore more sustainable leather alternatives.”

And, when you buy a Duffle & Co product, the company commits to planting a tree by supporting the Million Metres project to clean up our waterways, or feeding those in need through Kiwi Harvest (shop duffleandco.com).

Kiwi footwear pioneer Tim Brown, co-founder of Allbirds, has also just stepped up his company’s game with the introduction of a

‘Tree’ collection of runners (sneaker) and skippers (a twist on the boat shoe) made from ethically sourced eucalyptus fibres, which use only five per cent of the water and one-third of the land when compared to traditional footwear. Like Good magazine, which prints on Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified paper, Allbirds ‘Tree’ collection also complies with FSC standards. “It’s an opportunity for us to unfurl our vision for what the brand is about,” says Brown, who’s made headlines around the world for the brand’s merino runners and loungers. “From the beginning Allbirds wasn’t really about wool. I didn’t grow up on a sheep farm. And it wasn’t about shoes – it was about sustainable material innovation.” Allbirds eucalyptus fibre is made from wood pulp sustainably harvested in South Africa. Customer feedback about the merino Allbirds showed wool wasn’t as suitable in warm weather so they set out to solve this problem. “Eucalyptus fibre is incredible for its cooling qualities and incredible softness,” says Brown. It’s taken two years of development. First, they found a way to turn it into a yarn. When they realised that wasn’t enough, they had to introduce a whole new manufacturing process. Allbirds also found a way to use a bio-based material in the eyelet, which are fused on to the uppers. The shoelaces are also made out of recycled plastic bottles.

“We are at the cusp of a revolution in sustainable manufacturing,” says Brown. “It’s about the best products. We believe the footwear and fashion industry, broadly, is not really showing leadership in this regard, so there’s an opportunity for brands to come in and make this a part of their DNA. Make this non-negotiable in the way they operate and they can actually show leadership.”