Summer blush

These four rosé examples from certified biodynamic and organic producers represent this varietal at its most textural, complex and impressive.

Cullen Rosé Moon Pet Nat, Margaret River, Western Australia 2017, $55 Pétillant-Naturel is a French term, otherwise known as the Ancestral Method, that refers to the ancient method for creating sparkling wines, before the Champagne method was developed. The wine continues secondary fermentation in the bottle, and the result is a drop that is constantly changing, always alive, and always vital. This new release from Australia’s first biodynamiccertified producer, Cullen, is designed for summer – remarkably elegant and straightforwardly delicious.

Chêne Bleu Rosé Vaucluse, Rhône Valley 2017, $39.90 Unlike other producers who have retroactively converted to organic and biodynamic practises, Chêne Bleu was custom designed according to these principles, from the ground up. Their pink drop is world-renowned and justly considered one of the best-crafted available anywhere, the new 2017 vintage receiving a formidable 92/100 score from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Designed to accentuate all the best qualities of Provence-style rosé.

Benevolent Neglect Rosé Mendocino, California 2017, $67.50 Benevolent Neglect is the passion project of Matt Nagy, best known as a winemaker for top-tier Californian producers such as the 100-point-rated, $400-a-bottle Seaver. He crafts Benevolent Neglect exclusively by hand using natural practises on certified-organic vineyards, and his rosé is as spectacular as any of his limitedproduction reds. Though fruit purity is there, the palate offers so much more. Very limited, very special.

Jean Milan Symphorine Rosé Oger, Champagne NV, $135 Many aspects set Jean Milan apart from other Champagne producers. A small artisan grower in the Grand Cru village of Oger, most of their grapes are sold to the likes of Krug and Pol Roger just for their top cuvées. What little they release under their own label is biodynamically farmed and crafted by Caroline Milan, one of the most successful female winemakers in Champagne. Composed of entirely grand cru fruit from the property. The Symphorine Rosé was elaborated exclusively for the New Zealand market and is only available through Great Little Vineyards.