Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

THE CAFÉ OF 2017

As specialty coffee takes centrestag­e in Australia’s cafés, the daily grinds of 2017 combine high-tech gadgets with Instagram aesthetics and a passion for all things single origin. If your local looks like an artfully designed lab for thirsty scientists,

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If your local looks like a designer lab, here’s a café cheat sheet.

MULTIPLE GRINDERS

A choice of beans calls for multiple grinders, lest you cross-contaminat­e the notes of a fruity Geisha variety with an all-rounder house blend. Plus, switching between the grind measuremen­ts of each coffee slows things considerab­ly – not fun during a morning rush.

AUTO-TAMPERS

Tamping ground coffee into the basket properly is essential for good espresso. Programmab­le auto-tampers such as the Puq aren’t cheap, but deliver programmab­le and consistent pressure every time, sparing baristas’ wrists along the way.

THE MACHINE

There’s no consensus on the must-have machine, though the sleek Synesso MVP Hydra and the low-lying La Marzocco Linea PB (pictured) are popular with many a specialty café. Newer models bank on facility to extend customisat­ion (“dial-ins”) to water pressure, temperatur­e and timing, though it’s more fun than functional. “They’re really just kettles with pumps,” says Tim Williams of Melbourne roastery Bureaux Collective. Shiny, though.

CUSTOM-MADE CERAMICS

Handles make stacking awkward, latté glasses don’t retain heat and espresso cups prove too narrow to show the nose of coffee at its best. Sydney’s Single O was an early adopter of the move to custom-made ceramics, trading in tradition a few years back for Malcolm Greenwood clay cups that are a pleasure to clasp on a cold day.

THE JUGGLER

Daily crates of milk cartons have been replaced with The Juggler, a fridge system connected to pressurise­d taps and sinks built into the barista bar. Milk sits in squishy 10-litre bags underneath, keeping at a consistent temperatur­e, and it can be set to pour to the millilitre. It’s more efficient – though if you see your barista sprinting to the corner store, there’s a split bag causing havoc behind the bar.

MULTI-COFFEE MENUS

Will it be a natural Ethiopian heirloom? Or a washed Colombian Geisha? While the menu options might resemble Mad Libs more than a drink, cafés list country origin, variety and harvesting process as part of specialty coffee’s focus on quality control and traceabili­ty, challengin­g coffee production’s history of unethical labour practices. Usually, each option is designated to black, white or filter on tasting notes – one coffee, three ways.

SCALES

Whether an espresso or a five-litre batch of cold brew, each coffee is weighed pre- and post-extraction. It’s the best way to ensure every cup sticks to the day’s recipe, save for a sneaky sip.

BREW BAR

Brew bars let baristas bounce between filter coffee’s many forms. The most common is a V60, a funnel-shaped tool that lets water siphon through the coffee over several minutes, though some prefer the manual-release Kalita, its metal cousin. The AeroPress (pictured) – an all-plastic French press designed for easy use – is popping up more on menus. Its fans say it produces results that are fuller-bodied than the cleaner cup from the V60.

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