PROVENANCE

Provenance is the best restaurant in the High Country, and one of the finest in Victoria. Owner-chef Michael Ryan’s love of Japan is present in the technique and flavours of his dishes, and there’s similar fascination with local produce. There are two- and three-course à la carte menus where steamed snapper with a rice cake and kimchi hotpot is a highlight, but choose the dégustation, a six- to eight-course joyride that might include house-made silken tofu with ginger and dashi, and a wallaby tartare flavoured with umeboshi and topped with cured egg yolk. The wine list, by sommelier partner, Jeanette Henderson, is a thrilling read, placing the best of local makers (Savaterre, Giaconda, Castagna, Sorrenberg) alongside noteworthy Old World labels and rare sake. Book ahead to stay in one of the four Japaneseaccented rooms in converted stables. Provenance, 86 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 1786, theprovenance.com. au; open Wed-Sun 6.30pm-9pm

(Sat from 6pm)>