TERRACE RESTAURANT

Fourth-generation winemaking siblings Eliza, Angela and Nick Brown like to keep busy. Their latest project is restoring Mount Ophir, a spectacular, rundown old winery about a 10-minute drive from Rutherglen with an eclectic collection of buildings (including a threestorey tower) ripe for conversion into self-catering accommodation. There are plans for a small music festival and reinvigoration of Ophir’s organic orchards and vineyards. The Terrace Restaurant at the Browns’ All Saints Estate, where chef Simon Arkless prepares some of the prettiest, most skilfully cooked food in the ’hood, is a little like a permanent tent with clear plastic walls that roll up to catch manicured garden views when the weather is balmy. It lends a (sometimes literal) breeziness to the space, and there are plans here, too: to replace the tent with a sturdier structure within the next year or so. Tight service and Arkless’ menu impress with or without walls – the meal might include estate-raised suckling pig teamed with quince aïoli, gnocchi tossed with garlic custard and grilled radicchio, or a superb spiced pumpkin and brownbutter tart. Terrace Restaurant, 315 All Saints Rd, Wahgunyah, 1800 021 621, allsaintswine.com.au; open Wed-Sun noon-3pm, Sat 6pm-10pm