NOT QUITE SANDWICHES

These variations of the classic sanga are standouts.

In an evening-appropriate twist on a traditional Welsh breakfast, Ester (46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale, NSW, 02 8068 8279) tops a thick slice of the house sourdough with whipped laver butter, juicy pipis and a long translucent strip of lardo. At Saint Peter (362 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW, 02 8937 2530) Josh Niland layers buttery John Dory liver, a savoury-sweet stone-fruit chutney and chives on split and toasted English muffins. The pork souvlaki at Kalimera Souvlaki Art (41 Chester St, Oakleigh, Vic, 03 9939 3912) is just like you’d get in Athens: beautiful pork seasoned with Greek oregano, chips and tzatziki wrapped in fluffy char-grilled pita. At Supernormal (180 Flinders La, Melbourne, Vic, 03 9650 8688) cured, steamed and deep-fried duck legs are flavoured with five-spice and Sichuan pepper, shredded, then packed into freshly steamed bao with vinegar plum sauce and cucumber. The rich folds of house-made wagyu bresaola with a curl of fried bread and creamy parmesan custard served at Aria Brisbane ( 1 Eagle St, Brisbane, Qld, 07 3233 2555) may not actually sandwich anything together, but the combination of bread, meat and cheese have all the makings of a good sambo. It’s a similar story at Aløft (Brooke Street Pier, Hobart, Tas, 03 6223 1619) where chef Glenn Byrnes takes you straight to South East Asia with his turmeric wafer topped with nasturtium, grilled prawn, shredded Tasmanian apple salad and candied pepitas. And you can’t go wrong with the morgh chicken kebab with naan, salad and chutney at Kutchi Deli Parwana (7 Ebenezer Pl, Adelaide, SA, 08 7225 8586; shop 2, Food Area, Flinders University, Adelaide, SA).>