NOT QUITE SAND­WICHES

These vari­a­tions of the clas­sic sanga are stand­outs.

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Food -

In an evening-ap­pro­pri­ate twist on a tra­di­tional Welsh break­fast, Ester (46-52 Meagher St, Chip­pen­dale, NSW, 02 8068 8279) tops a thick slice of the house sour­dough with whipped laver but­ter, juicy pipis and a long translu­cent strip of lardo. At Saint Peter (362 Ox­ford St, Paddington, NSW, 02 8937 2530) Josh Ni­land lay­ers but­tery John Dory liver, a savoury-sweet stone-fruit chut­ney and chives on split and toasted English muffins. The pork sou­vlaki at Kal­imera Sou­vlaki Art (41 Ch­ester St, Oak­leigh, Vic, 03 9939 3912) is just like you’d get in Athens: beau­ti­ful pork sea­soned with Greek oregano, chips and tzatziki wrapped in fluffy char-grilled pita. At Su­per­nor­mal (180 Flin­ders La, Mel­bourne, Vic, 03 9650 8688) cured, steamed and deep-fried duck legs are flavoured with five-spice and Sichuan pep­per, shred­ded, then packed into freshly steamed bao with vine­gar plum sauce and cu­cum­ber. The rich folds of house-made wagyu bre­saola with a curl of fried bread and creamy parme­san cus­tard served at Aria Bris­bane ( 1 Ea­gle St, Bris­bane, Qld, 07 3233 2555) may not ac­tu­ally sand­wich any­thing to­gether, but the com­bi­na­tion of bread, meat and cheese have all the mak­ings of a good sambo. It’s a sim­i­lar story at Aløft (Brooke Street Pier, Ho­bart, Tas, 03 6223 1619) where chef Glenn Byrnes takes you straight to South East Asia with his turmeric wafer topped with nas­tur­tium, grilled prawn, shred­ded Tas­ma­nian ap­ple salad and can­died pepi­tas. And you can’t go wrong with the morgh chicken ke­bab with naan, salad and chut­ney at Kutchi Deli Par­wana (7 Ebenezer Pl, Ade­laide, SA, 08 7225 8586; shop 2, Food Area, Flin­ders Univer­sity, Ade­laide, SA).>

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