SYDNEY

Regional Italian cooking is back on the radar in Sydney with the imminent arrival of Marta, a neighbourhood osteria opening in Rushcutters Bay this month. The food of Rome is its focus: anchovies feature in everything from buttered bruschetta to alici arraganate, and Amatriciana (done with bombolotti, little rigatoni-like tubes) and cacio e pepe (pecorino and black pepper) are present and correct. Marta is the brainchild of Popolo owner, Flavio Carnevale, and to make way for it, he has closed Popolo ahead of plans to move the southern-themed restaurant to new CBD digs.