Toolkit

Niland uses a Sabatier carving knife without flex to fillet larger fish or a 15cm flexible filleting knife for smaller fish ($78 and $65, from Peter’s of Kensington). If he wanted to splash out, he says, he’d quite like a Japanese filleting knife (deba) forged from blue ($406, from Chef’s Armoury) or carbon steel ($736, from

Chef’s Armoury). Stockists p182.