The dif­fer­ence is Gagge­nau.

Culi­nary art starts with the first course. Culi­nary cul­ture starts sooner than that.

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - OCT - @SARAHALICEOAKES

The am­bi­tious kitchen is a place of ex­act­ing de­mands for equip­ment, in­gre­di­ents and tech­niques. The Vario cook­tops 400 se­ries have been meet­ing these de­mands from the be­gin­ning, with ap­pli­ances de­vel­oped to meet any chal­lenge. Energy ef­fi­cient, our steel-framed in­duc­tion cook­tops di­rect heat quickly to the pan with the power to sear as well as the con­trol for long, gen­tle sim­mer­ing. These cook­tops free the imag­i­na­tion; a trib­ute to bound­less cui­sine. What­ever com­bi­na­tion you choose, you can look for­ward to ex­cep­tional free­dom for decades to come.

For more in­for­ma­tion, please visit www.gagge­

For Christ­mas last year I de­stroyed my fam­ily’s Ital­ian her­itage. My hus­band, Pete Gi­ugni, grew up in a fam­ily that cel­e­brated their Ital­ian roots with gusto. Ro­man his­tory and architecture were his fa­ther’s favoured top­ics of con­ver­sa­tion. Great Ital­ian com­posers echoed through the home, pasta was pre­pared. Cu­mu­la­tively, hours were spent on the phone spell­ing out and cor­rect­ing the pro­nun­ci­a­tion of “Gi­ugni”, and when the first grand­chil­dren ar­rived, Pete’s el­dest brother went big on Ital­ian names: Paulo, Luca and Hugo.

When De­cem­ber 25 rolled around last year, I was ex­cited to present Pete with a DNA test. In ex­change for a small test tube of saliva, it promised to re­veal his ex­act ge­netic make-up. It took just six weeks to de­liver the re­sults and crush his fam­ily’s very fixed sense of iden­tity.

How Ital­ian was he? The sur­vey said about two per cent. What was he mostly? Ir­ish. About 80 per cent. The olive skin, dark curly hair and Ro­man nose were mis­lead­ing – the Gi­ug­nis be­gan as potato rather than pasta folk.

It’s easy to trace the clan back to Italy. The fam­ily tree places them in Florence in the 17th and 18th cen­turies, be­fore they moved to Switzer­land and, a cou­ple of gen­er­a­tions later, Aus­tralia. Be­fore that, who knows? At some stage they had ar­rived in Italy and started to iden­tify as Ital­ian.

The test was an in­ter­est­ing re­minder that for many of us the cul­tural prac­tices we em­brace aren’t nec­es­sar­ily our own but more a mash-up of the trav­els and tra­di­tions of those be­fore us. And when it comes to Italy, it’s easy to imag­ine why you’d hap­pily switch al­le­giances.

With that in mind, I hope there’s a lit­tle some­thing for ev­ery­one in this is­sue: the real Ital­ians, the fake Ital­ians, the non-Ital­ians and es­pe­cially (with my apolo­gies) all of the Gi­ug­nis.


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