Tr i p notes
Getting there
Lecce is about half an hour’s drive south of Brindisi Airport, which is served by regular flights from Milan, Rome, Bologna, Barcelona, London and Paris. Direct trains from Rome to Lecce take about five and half hours.
Stay
Casa dei Mercanti The nine self-catering suites in a Fascist-era building on Lecce’s largest square are ideal for those who want to make the most of Salento’s produce markets. Piazza Sant’Oronzo 44, Lecce, +39 0832 279819, casadeimercantisuites.it Don Totu Near the coastal towns of Castro and Santa Cesarea Terme, this six-room B&B features gardens, a pool, gym, library and Turkish bath. Via Crocefisso 10, San Cassiano, +39 0836 992374, dontotu.it La Fiermontina This “urban resort” of 16 rooms occupies a refurbished 17th-century villa at the edge of Lecce’s historic centre. Piazzetta de Summa Scipione 4, Lecce,
+39 0832 302481, lafiermontina.com Masseria Trapanà On the outskirts of Lecce, this rural retreat occupies a former fortified farmhouse. Strada Provinciale 236, Surbo-Casalabate, +39 0832 1832101, trapana.com
Eat
Farmacia dei Sani The innovative dishes at this restaurant deep in Salento’s interior are inspired by regional flavours and elevated using modern techniques. Piazza del Popolo 14, Ruffano, +39 339 833 2514 La Succursale This busy pizzeria serves thick-rimmed pizze with craft beer, as well as salads, legume dishes and cheese plates. Viale dell’Università 15, Lecce, +39 391 497 7749
Le Macàre This trattoria serves Salentino specialities such as eggplant stuffed with mozzarella and ragù misto, pork and beef simmered overnight in puréed tomatoes. Via Mariana Albina 140, Alezio, +39 0833 282192, lemacare.it
L’Orecchietta This pasta shop and trattoria in Guagnano sells fresh pasta made in local shapes and traditional dishes to take away or dine in. Via Vittorio Veneto 49, Guagnano, +39 334 722 0264, lorecchietta.com Lu Pescatore This family-run trattoria specialises in fish caught in the nearby nature reserve. Corso Annibale 1, Torre San Giovanni di Ugento, +39 0833 937018 Rua de Li Travaj Expect earthy regional specialties such as pittule (fried dough fritters) and ceci e tria (chickpeas with boiled and fried pasta). Via Felice Cavallotti 44, Patù, +39 349 058 4531
Drink
Quanto Basta This craft cocktail bar is Salento’s first foray into the world of global spirits, combining foreign and domestic flavours. Via Marco Basseo 29, Lecce, +39 347 008 3176 Cubi A new craft cocktail bar from the team behind Quanto Basta, mixing classic cocktails in southern Salento. Via S. Giuseppe 12, Maglie facebook.com/CubiMaglie
Alvino Its location in Lecce’s busiest square makes this café a point of reference for locals, for pastries, coffee and aperitivi. Piazza Sant’Oronzo 30, Lecce, +39 0832 246748, catamo.it Bar Cotognata Leccese Renowned for sweet specialties and cotognata, Lecce’s quince paste. Viale Marconi 51 Lecce, +39 0832 302800, cotognataleccese.com Pasticceria Ascalone Founded in 1740, this institution in its 10th generation of family ownership attracts pasticciotti lovers from across Salento. Via Vittorio Emanuele 17, Galatina, +39 0836 566009 Pasticceria Nobile Pasticciotti are served hot out of the oven at this café near the sea in San Cataldo. Via Marco Polo 9, San Cataldo, +39 0832 650595 Caffè Parisi Come for its large aperitivo snack spread and stay for its prime position in Nardò’s elegant historic centre. Piazza Antonio Salandra 38, Nardò, +39 0833 182 3223