Local knowledge
Dave and Eleanor Fletcher’s hitlist for eating and drinking in the Langhe district of Piedmont. Eat “Trattoria dai Bercau is where we go for really traditional food – it’s quite a big lunch,” says Eleanor. “There will be a stream of antipasti, then a choice of pasta – normally that includes agnolotti del plin and tajarin. For dessert, they bring out a string of choices, but the best one is always the bonet, the traditional Piedmontese chocolate pudding made with crushed amaretti biscuits.” Via Beato Valfrè, 13, 12060 Verduno, +39 0172 470 243, bercau.it “La Ciau del Tornavento has an amazing view of the rolling hills of the nearby towns of Treiso and Barbaresco,” says Dave. “They have great wine, too. You can visit the cellar underneath the restaurant – it’s incredible. It has a collection from every top producer in this zone.” Piazza Leopoldo Baracco, 7, 12050 Treiso, +39 0173 638 333, laciaudeltornavento.it “Ristorante Rabaya is a quintessential Barbaresco dining experience – elegant yet traditional dishes, a beautiful outdoor terrace with a view over the vineyards and great attention to detail,” says Eleanor. “The menu is seasonal and constantly changes.” Strada della Stazione, 12, 12050 Barbaresco, +39 0173 635 223 Drink “Le Case della Saracca is a wine bar, restaurant and hotel in a restored medieval castle in the historical centre of Monforte d’Alba, at the top of the hill in the town – it’s really beautiful,” she says. “It’s the most picturesque town in this zone. They’ve got a massive list of
all the great wines, a huge spread of nibbles for aperitivo, and you can taste Barolo by the glass.” Via Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, 5, 12065 Monforte d’Alba, +39 0173 789 222, saracca.com “Barolo Bar is a lively wine bar that’s frequented by wine producers, locals and tourists alike, with a beautiful outdoor terrace for the warmer months. You can enjoy many local wines by the glass,” says Eleanor. Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 11, 12065 Monforte d’Alba, +39 0173 789 243 “Vinoteca Centro Storico is located at the foot of a [14th-century] castle in the village of Serralunga d’Alba,” she says. “All the local wine producers go there to drink Champagne and eat great food. There’s a mix of Italian wines as well, and they do prosciutto carved off the bone.” Via Roma, 6, 12050 Serralunga d’Alba, +39 0173 613 203 Stay Villa d’Amelia is a boutique hotel with 37 rooms and a Michelin-starred restaurant, about 20 minutes’ drive from La Stazione near the town of Benevello, overlooking the vineyards of Barolo. Rooms from €180. Località Manera, 1, 12050 Benevello, +39 0173 529 225, villadamelia.com Getting there
La Stazione, in Barbaresco, is about an hour’s drive south of the nearest major airport, in Turin. The cellar door is open for walk-ins Thursday to Saturday from 10am to 6pm. Group cooking classes are held on Sunday afternoons during truffle season (10 September to 26 November; bookings required); private classes can be arranged on request. Truffle hunts can be organised during hunting season (21 September to 31 January). Strada della Stazione, 29, 12050 Barbaresco,
+39 0173 380 211, lastazionebarbaresco.com