Play the market

Twee-free Christmas markets mix neighbourhood charm and seasonal spirit.

Spittelberg Market, Vienna, Austria The Christmas market in the boho district of Spittelberg is more about neighbourhood socialising than wooden-cabin retailing. In cobbled courtyards and along winding streets lined with offbeat boutiques, bars and galleries, friends gather in the snow with mugs of Amarenacherry Chilli Punch and glühwein, inhaling the smell of woodsmoke and waffles, and queuing for south Tyrolean dumplings at Knödleria. spittelberg.at

Marché de Noël, Montreux,

Switzerland Even by Swiss standards, the alpine views from Montreux’s annual market on the shore of Lake Geneva are splendid. Chalet-shops sell handcrafted gifts and calorific snacks of raclette, röstis and vin chaud, and there’s more seasonal cheer nearby at the Christmas village of Caux and a medieval market at Chillon Castle. Childen love the short cog-train trip to see a jolly old St Nick atop Rochers-de-Naye. montreuxnoel.com

Sternchenmarkt, Düsseldorf,

Germany Düsseldorf’s markets don’t rank among Germany’s best known – head to nearby Cologne for a market with the works. For a dose of Christmas cheer in a city known for cutting-edge fashion, head to the Little Stars Market at the Little City Bridge (Sternchenmarkt am Stadtbrückchen). Located in the “old” city rebuilt convincingly after the war, it’s a charming neighbourhood alternative to the supersized German markets. duesseldorf-tourismus.de