Spaghetti cacio e pepe

SERVES 4-6 “I tell my students if they master this dish, they’re on their way to becoming pasta experts,” says Beramendi. “Timing and attention to detail are essential to its success. Having eaten hundreds of versions of this Roman classic, I finally found the perfect method: use artisanal pasta, strong, pungent pecorino, sea salt and Tellicherry pepper crushed with a mortar and pestle. Have everything measured and ready to go from the pan to warm bowls.” Pictured p126. 453 gm durum-wheat semolina spaghetti

120 gm (1½ cups) grated Pecorino Romano, plus extra to serve

1 tbsp crushed black Tellicherry peppercorns (see note), plus more if needed

1 Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add pasta, letting it soften and submerge itself, then give it a stir so it doesn’t stick. After 4 minutes, taste a strand for doneness. Continue tasting strands until almost al dente

(up to 10 minutes). Reserve 500ml cooking water.

2 Drain pasta, return to pan, add a handful of cheese and gently lift and toss with tongs to coat pasta with the cheese as it melts. Reduce heat to mediumlow, add 125ml cooking water, and continue to mix, adding remaining cheese and a little more water as needed until evenly coated and creamy.

3 Add pepper and toss to coat. Season to taste. Bring the pan to the table and serve immediately in warm bowls with extra cheese and pepper.

Note Tellicherry peppercorns, extra-bold pepper from south India, are available from Herbie’s Spices (herbies.com.au).

Wine suggestion A gutsy wine to stand up to the sharp pecorino, such as a Taurasi from Mastroberardino.