Trip notes

Getting there

Sri Lankan Airlines flies direct from Melbourne to Colombo. Singapore Airlines flies from major Australian cities to Colombo via Singapore.

Eat

Café on the 5th The hoppers here are among the most delicate I’ve encountered. Have them with prawn curry and katta sambol. 108 5th La, Colombo 03, +94 11 2573 765, tastycaterers.lk

VOC Café Everything served at this small café inside the Dutch Burgher Union building is made in-house – except for the lamprais, the famous Burgher curry parcels, which have been made for the past 12 years by an anonymous Burgher woman. 114 Reid Ave, Colombo 04,

+94 112 584 511, thedutchburgherunion.org Beach Wadiya This quaint coastal eatery with tables on the sand has excellent seafood and a solid following. 2 Station Ave, Colombo 06, +94 11 258 8568, beachwadiya.com Panaash The faluda and the South Indian-style sweets and snacks at this small shop are excellent. 245 Havelock Rd, Colombo 06, +94 114 931 786 Hotel de Plaza A proper late-night dive – small, hot, bright and noisy – with a menu covering all the island’s favourite late-night snacks. 329 Galle Rd, Colombo 03, +94 114 852 600 Note Most eateries across Sri Lanka are shut on poya (full moon) days.

Stay

Galle Face Hotel The ambience at

Sri Lanka’s 19th-century grande dame is nostalgic and glamorous. Highlights are drinks on the chequerboard terrace and the breakfast buffet in the Veranda Restaurant. 2 Galle Rd, Colombo 03, +94 11 254 1010, gallefacehotel.com

Kumbura Eco Lodge Simple accommodation and a great base from which to explore the ancient fortress of Sigiriya. The food by co-owner Dinasheka Kumara is a drawcard and she runs cooking lessons on request. kumbura.com

West Winds This tranquil three-bedroom house with adjacent cottage is great for families and small groups. West Winds, 150, Dungalpitiya, Thalahena, Negombo, marymartinridgeon@gmail.com