RESTAURANT NEWS
SYDNEY Taking a cue from Hollywood’s release schedule, Sydney is ruled by reboots, revivals and spin-offs. Adam Wolfers’
Ételek pop-up returns with a wider focus at Antipodean’s old site, where it’s running until 13 October. The second Queen Chow takes over Papi Chulo, the menu paying tribute to oldschool Cantonese classics. Matteo Downtown sets itself apart from its Double Bay sibling with a mozzarella and antipasti bar, plus a big focus on aperitivo. And the next-gen hits The Wine Library: Matt Taylor (Monopole) is head chef, and sommelier Tim Perlstone (Merivale) is in charge of the cellar of 2,500 bottles, which range from trophy vintages of Guigal’s “La La’s” from the Rhône to progressive small-producer wines from Australia.
MELBOURNE Reboot fever strikes Melbourne, too, as Kappo shifts into Master Den’s Poppu Uppu. Simon Denton’s winter-friendly eatery is about simmering broths: expect a Hokkaido-style seafood nabe, shabu shabu with wagyu rump and a vegan mushroom hotpot. At Tipico, owners Marco Scalisi, Andrea Da Como and chef Domenico De Marco channel their Italian origins (and their “mammas and zias”) with zucchini Parmigiana, spaghetti alla chitarra and beef ragù tagliatelle. The wine list keeps things local and Italian.
CANBERRA Sure, new canteen, Terra, has granola and chia puddings, but chef Sung Son is also happy to slip wonton crisps into a salmon sando and serve poutine with oxtail gravy. A tribute to his Hartsyard days, perhaps?
TORONTO Paula Navarrete’s menu at Momofuku’s Kōjin stays close to home: the mash is inspired by a potato “cheesecake” made by her Colombian grandmother, while flatbreads (with Niagara ham, pickled cherries or spinach and Steam Whistle beer) are baked with flour from K2, the oldest organic miller in town.