Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

RESTAURANT NEWS

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SYDNEY

Colin Fassnidge’s 4Fourteen is gone, but Don’t Tell Aunty is making good use of its old Surry Hills digs. The Indian restaurant is run by Jessi Singh (known for his Babu Ji restaurant­s in Melbourne and New York), and he is upfront about its commitment to “unauthenti­c” food. The bordercros­sing menu includes sea-urchin biryani, General Tso’s cauliflowe­r, and oysters garnished with green mango, lime pickle and broken chickpea noodles.

BALI

Celebrated Australian chef Nathan Sasi has now set up shop with a new restaurant in Canggu.

Mason has echoes of his Sydney ventures Nomad and Mercado: the menu is dominated by woodfired dishes (such as barramundi with smoked tomato) and there’s no shortage of cured meats.

MELBOURNE

Cibi is shifting to a site that’s four times the size of its original location. Bestsellin­g dishes from the café such as traditiona­l Japanese breakfast and a soba salad with bean curd and tapenade will stay, but the larger surrounds will mean more space to browse the concept store, where you can pick up Sori Yanagi cutlery and other Japanese wares, plus take-home condiments from Cibi’s own kitchen.

Italian Artisans

has taken over from DOC in Albert Park as a new venture by owner Tony Nicolini. Here you can enjoy well-sourced mozzarella or decide between 24-month-old San Daniele prosciutto or a 30-month version from Parma. As you’d expect, pizza is a big deal on the menu, too.

CANBERRA

The former A Baker site is now home to Morning Glory.

The menu has a bold Asian flavour: there’s bo kho casarecce, inspired by the Vietnamese beef stew, as well as Hainanese chicken wraps, black sesame waffles and soursop smoothies. This new project by the XO team has solid Asian credential­s: its launch date was determined with the aid of monks in the mountains of Vietnam, consulted by the aunt of co-owner Kent Nhan.

LONDON

Following the success of two pop-ups, St John Bakery, an offshoot of Fergus Henderson’s famed restaurant, has found a permanent location. Hit Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden for sourdough, outstandin­g custard doughnuts, pastries and, once they get their licence, St John wine. The celebrated Neal’s Yard Dairy is a near neighbour, all the better to grab some Lancashire cheese to go with your Eccles cakes along the way.

 ??  ?? Morning Glory’s sardines with celeriac purée and spiced tomato on rye.
Morning Glory’s sardines with celeriac purée and spiced tomato on rye.

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