Trip notes
Getting there
Emirates, Qatar and British Airways fly one-stop to Edinburgh from select Australian cities. Caledonian MacBrayne operates regular car ferries between the Scottish mainland and the Hebridean islands. Loganair flies between Glasgow and Islay, and from both Glasgow and Edinburgh to the island of Lewis and Harris.
Stay
The Edinburgh Grand The neo-classical former National Bank of Scotland has been transformed into 50 luxe apartments and The Register Club, a cocktail bar, games room and snug, with splendid original features. 42 St Andrew Sq, Edinburgh, lateralcity.com Islay House A private estate since 1677, this charming boutique hotel with a serious whisky bar is surrounded by a community garden and Bridgend Woods. Bridgend, Islay, islayhouse.co.uk Lews Castle This 19th-century gothicrevival castle set in a 270-hectare estate has chic apartments upstairs, and a bar, café and the marvellous Museum nan Eilean downstairs. Stornoway, Lewis, naturalretreats.co.uk Nira Caledonia Twin Georgian townhouses emerged from a £1.4-million refurbishment last year with their grand period features intact and elegant furnishings in 28 guestrooms. 6-10 Gloucester Pl, Edinburgh, niracaledonia.com
Old Town Chambers The inspired restoration of a 15th-century townhouse has created a warren of spacious studios, apartments and penthouses in Edinburgh’s medieval heart. Roxburgh’s Court,
323 High St, Edinburgh, lateralcity.com Whitefalls Spa Lodges Watch the Northern Lights in winter or the long midsummer twilight from whirlpool spa baths in two luxe lodges designed for couples near Callanish Stones. Owner Donald Macarthur is a mine of local knowledge. 2 Breasclete, Lewis, whitefalls.co.uk
Eat
Gardener’s Cottage Follow a path through vegie patches to a humble 19th-century gardener’s cottage, where highly seasonal tasting menus are served at long communal tables. Chef Dale Mailley opened his third city kitchen, The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage, on Calton Hill in November. Royal Terrace Gardens, 1 London Rd, Edinburgh, thegardenerscottage.co Islay House Chef Alex Floyd grew up on the neighbouring island of
Jura and returned to the Hebrides after stints in London and Brazil. He uses terrific island produce in refined dishes, served in an elegant formal dining room.
North Harbour Bistro and Tearoom Book ahead for trawler-fresh seafood prepared with flair in an unpretentious boatshed on the island of Scalpay, across a bridge from Harris. North Harbour, Scalpay, +44 1859 540218
40 North From the croft kitchen where her father used to weave,
Anne Campbell runs a restaurant and home-style takeaway meal outlet; don’t miss her hearty pies. 40 North Bragar, Lewis, 40northfoods.co.uk
Oban Seafood Hut Crowds share communal benches outside this green shack at the Calmac ferry terminal at Oban, which serves the Inner Hebridean islands, for huge helpings of crab, lobster and scallops on plastic plates. Calmac Pier, Oban
Port Charlotte Hotel Follow a hearty pub meal of island produce with a fireside session in the bar with a whisky and live trad music. Port Charlotte, Islay, portcharlottehotel.co.uk Royal Hotel Expect the likes of Lewis lamb and creel-caught langoustines in The Boatshed bistro. Cromwell St, Stornoway, Lewis, royalstornoway.co.uk
Shop
Walker Slater There are stores in Glasgow and London but Walker Slater’s Edinburgh HQ is the last word in tweed, fine tailoring and terrific service, whether it’s a four-piece suit in featherweight tweed, high-waisted tartan trousers with braces or a Harris Tweed overcoat for foul weather. 16-20 Victoria St, Edinburgh, walkerslater.com 21st Century Kilts From a sandstone studio in historic Thistle Street, Howie Nicholsby is on a mission to “give all men an everyday alternative to trousers” as a matter of choice and health. “You know it’s scientifically proven that men who wear kilts are more fertile and have better testicular health,” he says. The third-generation Jewish-Scottish custom kilt maker to the stars (and habitual kilt wearer) makes finely detailed tartan kilt suits but prefers to work in heavy denim, Harris Tweed and camouflage with leather details and an external pocket system. Accessorise with combat boots and a swagger. 48 Thistle St, Edinburgh, 21stcenturykilts.com
See
Harris Tweed Authority The office of the statutory body charged with maintaining the authenticity of Harris Tweed globally also houses an exhibition space and hosts weaving demonstrations. Town Hall, 2 Cromwell St, Stornoway, Lewis, harristweed.org Islay whisky trail The island’s eight distilleries (a ninth, Ardnahoe, is due to open early this year) operate a range of daily tours, tastings and experiences, including Laphroaig’s peat-cutting excursion. Hours and tour frequency are seasonal; a handy brochure is updated annually and available at all distilleries but not online, so check distillery websites for details. There are six taxi services, bike hire at Port Ellen, and car hire at Islay Airport.
Museum nan Eilean A homage to Hebridean history, culture and language in Lews Castle. Stornoway, Lewis, lews-castle.co.uk
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