Milan, Italy
From a classic osteria to an izakaya bar, chef DIEGO ROSSI takes us on a culinary tour of his favourite city venues.
The name of his restaurant might mean tripe, but Diego Rossi likes to eat vegetables when he goes out. Contradictory? Perhaps, but sidestepping expectations is a trademark of this firebrand Italian chef. Born in Verona, Rossi is the cooking force behind Trippa, Milan’s “people’s trattoria” renowned for its democratic, produce-driven and affordable approach to feeding guests. When he’s not in the kitchen, this is where you’ll find Rossi eating and drinking.
Come say ciao!
When you say, “I’m going to eat in a trattoria”, your imagination goes towards an old place with a grandmother in the kitchen cooking big portions. With Trippa, I wanted to bring the concept of the trattoria into today’s world. You will still find the signs of a traditional trattoria: the service is casual, the colours warm and the food affordable. But in the service style and kitchen, we try to bring it forward. There is a stronger focus on the ingredients. The menu is very seasonal. And we like to create new dishes using forgotten products.
“We need more restaurants like this”
Nebbia was opened in the centre of Milan by three young friends: chefs Frederico Fiore and Mattia Grilli, and restaurant manager Marco Marone, who worked in Michelinstarred restaurants such as Le Chateaubriand in Paris. It’s casual and, with its big, bright dining room, reminds me more of a French bistro than a trattoria. The food is Italian both in generosity and flavour.
Vegetables, as nature intended
The name of my restaurant is Trippa, but I usually only eat vegetables, which is why I love Tipografia Alimentare. The menu focuses on vegetables, and dishes are highly seasonal and cooked and seasoned very simply. The produce is as natural and ethical as possible and this philosophy extends beyond the food to the wine and beer. The coffee is great, too. It has a hipster vibe including random vintage furniture, but it’s not pretentious. The service is simple, and the people are very kind. You feel good when you are here.
Classic Italian
Rovello 18 is an old and charming restaurant with simple, classic Italian food. You might start with charcuterie or some sausage with polenta and then move to homemade pastas and grilled meat or fish. It’s like an osteria, only a little more chic. It’s old-school romance at its best.
Late-night snacks and sake
After service, you’ll usually find me at Kanpai, a Japanese izakaya open until 2am. I love the vibe and the food, and the owner is a good friend. It serves typical izakaya dishes: agedashi tofu, karaage chicken, okonomiyaki. I always order the natto, a traditional dish of fermented soybeans. It’s super-funky, but I love it.
Countryside escape
My favourite is Trattoria del Gallo, a very typical countryside trattoria only 20 minutes by car from the centre of Milan. This is where you can eat authentic and simple Lombardy cuisine like cotoletta and risotto alla Milanese. Its wine cellar is as deep as its history – the restaurant dates back to 1870 – with old, hard-to-find bottles as well as natural wine. It’s beautiful in summer to sit in the garden and it’s cosy in winter. It’s the kind of place to visit on Sunday for a long family lunch.
Drinking cocktails in style
For cocktails, I love to visit 1930.
It’s a very special place for me. As you can probably guess from the name, everything is in the style of the 1930s. The music is always good – usually swing or live piano. It’s a secret speakeasy, with no website or online address. You first enter through a very ugly bar, then are brought to a door hidden in the back. In summer, I love Ceresio 7, a rooftop bar with a swimming pool. The bartender is one of the best in Italy. You can drink great cocktails with a beautiful view of Milan.
Natural wine and solidarity
New natural wine bar and shop,
E/N Enoteca Naturale is very special. The building – an abandoned 1940s school – is located in one of the most beautiful places in Milan, the pedestrian-only Via Santa Croce, and has a huge, lovely garden, which is hard to find in the city centre. But it’s not only special because of its beauty: the bar promotes social inclusion of asylum seekers with traineeships. The staff are young and passionate about natural wine.
Learn about Italy’s best natural winemakers
If you love natural wine like me, you must visit Vinoir, a relaxed enoteca near the canal. The owner, Gianluca Ladu, is one of the most important sommeliers in the city and was one of the first to sell natural wine in
Milan. He’s hardcore: very prepared, passionate and uncompromising. He only pours natural wine, and with each bottle there is a story. His storytelling is reason enough to visit, really.