THE ULTIMATE HOT CROSS BUNS
Sugar and spice, and all things nice.
Sugar and spice, and all things nice. GT tests a few favourite recipes to create our own ultimate bun.
There’s something inherently comforting about the smell of freshly baked hot cross buns. Perhaps it’s the nostalgic scent of rising dough, the festive aroma of warm spices, or even the sweet perfume of orange and sugar bubbling away atop a kitchen stove for the glaze. Straight from the oven or lightly toasted, these fruit-studded buns are a Good Friday breakfast ritual, one dating back more than 700 years. But which ingredients and methods produce the best bun? Does fresh or dried yeast work best? Caster or brown sugar? How sticky should the glaze be? We tested three recipes, then combined them to create our ultimate hot cross bun.
Elizabeth David ENGLISH BREAD AND YEAST COOKERY
Elizabeth David has explored the history of the hot cross bun throughout her food literature. Her version calls for fresh yeast and strong baker’s flour, with the addition of eggs, milk, light brown sugar and softened butter. The dough is flavoured with mixed spice and currants, rested for 2 hours, then rolled and proved again in bun tins (we used a muffin tin). David cuts the cross into the dough rather than making a paste, and uses a simple glaze of equal quantities milk and caster sugar.
The verdict:
The result is an old-school style of English bun with subtle spice levels, a golden outer crust and a light, yet slightly dry crumb. Also contributing to the lack of moisture are the currants, which remain shrivelled as they weren’t soaked before being added to the dough. This is a fairly simple yet classic recipe.
Natalie Paull BEATRIX BAKES
The recipe in a new book from Melbourne baker Natalie Paull of Beatrix bakery stars orange: currants and sultanas are soaked in the juice of an orange, while the flesh from a second fruit is blended to a pulp and added to the dough, its zest flavouring the glaze. The dough also calls for plain flour, caster sugar, milk, “soft and squidgy” butter and fresh yeast (no eggs). And as an alternative to mixed spice, Paull shares a side recipe for a mix using ground whole spices.
The verdict:
Overall, these buns are dense and doughy, and although cooked through, have a raw consistency (we even tried a batch with an extra 15-minute cook time). However, the texture does improve slightly as they cool. The inclusion of a whole, puréed orange in the dough is an inspired idea, but may contribute to the bun’s density. Highlights include the soaked fruits, which are extra plump, and the glaze – a standout, with the fragrant addition of vanilla and orange zest.
Nadine Ingram FLOUR AND STONE: BAKED FOR LOVE, LIFE AND HAPPINESS
Ingram’s dough uses softened butter, like the other recipes, with strong baker’s flour, brown sugar, milk and 1 egg, and the choice of either fresh or dried yeast (we used dried). The spice blend consists of cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg and cloves. A fruit mixture of sultanas, currants and raisins are hydrated in boiling water, and there is the addition of candied orange peel, too. The buns are piped with a flour-oil paste flavoured with orange-blossom water and nutmeg, while the glaze is simple: caster sugar, water and orange zest.
The verdict:
It’s a big call, but these are pretty close to being the perfect hot cross buns. The dough is consistent throughout, its soft, pillowy texture is studded with plump, juicy fruit and pieces of zesty peel. An invigorating measure of spice contributes to the bun’s traditional flavour, while a hint of orange zest in the glaze reinforces the citrus notes. The cross is fairly thin and light in colour, but Ingram mentions that you can make it thicker if you like. In addition, her recipe steps are uncomplicated and easy to follow.