FOOD FOR THOUGHT

In times of uncertainty people seek transparency, which is driving a business boom for local producers, writes GEORGIE MEREDITH.

The need for transparency and certainty is driving a boom for local producers.

As we emerge from a period of total uncertainty, one thing is becoming clear: a shift is taking place as consumers rethink their approach to fresh food, questioning where it comes from, how it’s grown and even how it tastes. While big-name supermarkets remain essential for basic necessities, the real-world effects of climate change, drought, and yearly bushfires, have galvanised consumers into thinking more carefully about their weekly shop.

The result? Small-scale farmers are experiencing a boom of interest, with local markets and delivery services thriving. More recently, the health, social and economic ramifications of the Covid-19 pandemic have driven customers to shop in new ways, propelling producers into their busiest period ever.

Talia Smith is the founder of The Locals Market – a sustainably-operated weekly food market run out of Paramount House Hotel in Sydney’s Surry Hills. Smith sources all her fruit and vegetables from small-scale producers close to Sydney.

The chef-turned-wholefoods-dealer started the venture nearly seven years ago in the hopes of bringing quality local produce to her community in a social and sustainable way. “I wanted to make it simple for households to access local produce and reduce mindless shopping at supermarkets,” explains Smith.

Since then, the project’s customer base has grown from a few regulars to a coterie of nearly 200 people. And this year, she says, she’s never been busier. Smith, like many others, believes there has been a major change in the way people are thinking about their food.

“People are far more passionate about fresh, locally grown food and what that tastes like. They know it’s better for them and better for our local industry,” says Smith.

“The ongoing drought has made it necessary for farmers and growers to share their personal insights into the conditions produce is being grown in and the adversity tolerated from season to season,” she adds. “Sharing information straight from the farmers has really helped in shifting the expectations people have about the pursuit of perfection and their connection with the food they eat.”

Smith also believes the implications of coronavirus have played a part in a recent surge of customers. “As soon as lockdown hit, I received a tsunami of emails from people wanting delivery.

“I am not a big business. I usually operate from two market tables every Saturday morning and collectively feed about 200 people a week, plus anyone who drops by early. In the past few months, I have fed so many more than usual. It’s humbling to service the community and help people stay well.”

The Locals Market isn’t the only project that has seen a boom in interest of late. Ooooby, a Newtownbased food delivery service that sources organic produce from small-scale farms along the east coast has tripled its client base since the start of the year.

“It’s hard to say if that boom is from coronavirus or if people have genuinely been more interested,” says Ooooby founder, Murat

Keskin. “But for many people who’ve supported us through the years, the interest in knowing where their food comes from would make up a major factor as to why they purchase with us.

“We currently work with 18 growers directly. We also receive produce from various other farms via our wholesaler, Eco Farms, in order to fill our boxes with a wide variety of seasonal and organically grown fruit.”

One such grower is Moonacres Farm in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales, which is teeming with brassicas, root vegetables, stone fruit and leafy herbs all year round. The certified organic produce supplies multiple markets, restaurants and delivery services in Sydney. The farm also has a selection of fresh fruit and vegetables available for purchase from the café and restaurant at their Robertson site each Saturday, with the new market stall a welcomed addition during the pandemic.

Stephen Santucci, grower and head chef at Moonacres Farm and Kitchen, believes that consumers are much more concerned about the seasonality of their produce and where it’s actually grown. “Our produce not only feels better but tastes better on the whole,” says Santucci. “Whether it’s purchased from our café or as a boxed special, people are driven to buy and eat what is in season, and what has been grown, picked or baked, potentially only hours before their purchase.”

According to Santucci, coronavirus has played a major part in the farm and kitchen’s sudden increase of home deliveries, which have doubled this year. “When there is little certainty about so many things, good wholesome food provides comfort,” he says. “I think the increased demand for our services shows that people want to eat organic, fresh food.”

Ngeringa Farm, south-east of Adelaide, specialises in certified bio-dynamic vegetables and has been selling produce boxes for nearly three years. They have also witnessed an influx of customers in recent months.

“We’re selling almost six or seven times the amount we once were,” says the farm’s produce manager, Andrew Taylor. “In the past few months, we’ve gone from 15 boxes a week to nearly 100.

It’s only a small part of what we do at the farm, but it has definitely grown.

“We’ve lost a lot of the restaurants we would normally sell to because of coronavirus, but a lot more small businesses have jumped on board,” says Taylor. “This trying time has shown how resilient the local food community is. If one thing fails, we just grow another.”

While coronavirus has encouraged many Australians to rethink their buying behaviour in regards to fresh produce, a noticeable shift towards sustainable and locally grown ingredients was beginning to take place well before the pandemic.

Pia Grace, a resident from Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs and social worker at a local women’s refuge, has been ordering fresh produce boxes from Ooooby since early January. “Our household wanted to support local growers and eat seasonal produce,” says Grace. “It seemed unsustainable buying from big food chains who import from across the world.

“The produce we’re getting is amazing and there is a great community-minded approach,” she adds. “Oooby also donates 20 boxes to the girls at our refuge every fortnight.”

Our local food system has proved strong, reliable and adaptable in times of strife. But the real question is: how do we sustain this new-found appreciation for local produce? “Through awareness, education and mindful consumption,” says Grace. “The community aspect is an added bonus.”

“In the past few months, we’ve gone from 15 boxes a week to nearly 100.”