ARE WE THERE YET?
ANNA HART upgrades her travel daydreams as she turns her back on the days of fast travel.
Get road-trip ready with regional travel guides from some of the country’s leading restaurateurs.
There’s so much beauty in our own backyards. With travel restrictions easing, get road-trip ready with the help of these regional travel guides from some of the country’s most respected restaurateurs.
BEN DEVLIN’S NORTHERN RIVERS, NSW 60 kilometres from the Gold Coast’s CBD
Owner and chef of Pipit restaurant, Pottsville
“Most people know the Tweed or Northern Rivers as a stretch of amazing beaches,” says Ben Devlin. “What many forget, is that it’s also anchored with amazing green hinterland to the west, great waterfront along the Tweed River, and has the scenic backdrop of Mount Warning and the Border Ranges. I grew up in Byron Bay, but I moved to Brisbane for my apprenticeship and work. After being away in the cold winters of Copenhagen for two years, it was a family trip back home that made me decide that actually the sun, the surf and the community of this area was what I wanted. I was approached about a short-term gig at Halcyon House, and I ended up staying for more than three years. The dream of opening my own restaurant never died during this time, and we made a decision that the Northern Rivers was the best place for it. It was a mix of luck, availability, and timing that landed Pipit in Pottsville.”
EAT: Pottsville Pizzeria
“Valter Arenzani took over and revamped the local pizza place across the street from us last year. He has restaurant experience in Europe and brings that extra attention and quality to a genre that can be fairly average and ubiquitous in some places. The pizza crust, in particular, is great – and we love the simplicity of the prosciutto pizza. And with a sweet tooth, it’s very hard to avoid the knock-out tiramisu.” pottsville-pizzeria.com
HIDDEN GEM: Tropical Fruit World
“More than a tourist attraction, and more than a commercial farm, this is the place to go for very fresh and unique fruits that you don’t often see elsewhere; things like jackfruit, black sapote, and dragonfruit are some favourites used on the Pipit menu. There’s also a stellar view of Mt Warning from the hilltop carpark.” tropicalfruitworld.com.au
DRINK: Husk Distillers and Cape Byron Distillery
“We’ve seen great breweries and distilleries emerge as a local trend. Closest to us is the ‘paddock to bottle’ Husk Distillery: they make Australia’s only agricole rum, made with freshly crushed cane juice instead of molasses.
We also really admire and love Cape Byron Distillery, set on the family’s macadamia farm. They’ve done extensive rainforest regeneration on site, which is both the inspiration behind, and the supply of native botanicals used in their gins. Both businesses do worthwhile behind-the-scenes tours and tastings at their cellar doors.” huskdistillers.com; capebyrondistillery.com
STAY: Halcyon House
“I’m a bit biased as an ex-employee, and my wife and I also got married there, but it’s a total stand-out both on the Tweed Coast and nationally. There was a lot of thought and care from the owners in setting up the hotel, and general manager, Mauro De Riso, runs it beautifully. They’ve added a spa since opening which makes it great for longer stays. And being right on the beach is hard to beat, too.” halcyonhouse.com.au
ONE TO WATCH: Grit Ceramics
“We collaborated with local Pottsville ceramicist,
Leia Sherblom of Grit Ceramics, on Pipit’s sustainable tableware. Leia made use of Pipit’s kitchen “waste,” such as our wood-grill ash in glazes, fish bones in bone china and pipi shells for texture. She has very interesting ideas about wild clay and using human bone ash, too. A new retail studio about five doors down from the restaurant is in the works.” gritceramics.com
SHARON ROMEO’S BAROSSA VALLEY, SA 75 kilometres from Adelaide’s CBD
Director of Fino at Seppeltsfield and Fino Vino Adelaide
“I was born and bred in Adelaide, but working long hours in hospitality, I never really ventured outside the city,” says Sharon Romeo. “My first visit to the Barossa wasn’t until I was in my mid-20s and it was such a ‘wow’ moment. It was my first regional restaurant experience. I remember the Barossa’s vastness, the autumnal colours in the vineyards and the rolling green hills and valleys. In the years that followed, I discovered that there’s this deep sense of community spirit there, and it runs across generations of families. When we opened Fino at Seppeltsfield Winery in 2014, we were welcomed by all. The local people work so hard to preserve the history, culture and food traditions of the area, and there’s a huge commitment to provenance. When you come, try not to fit it all in one day. Come for the weekend and take in each township and its heartfelt hospitality. People try to fit in too much, but now more than ever, we need to relax and enjoy every moment.”
EAT: The Farm Eatery
“For a casual brunch or lunch, The Farm Eatery in Nuriootpa, run by Elli Beer (Maggie Beer’s youngest daughter) is a must-visit. Elli has hospitality running in her veins! The three-course chef’s choice is fantastic value – the food is simple, honest and shines a light on regional producers. They also offer cooking and gin classes which are a bit of fun.” thefarmeatery.com
STAY: The Louise
“Nothing about the guest experience is overlooked at
The Louise in Marananga. With luxe suites and vineyard views, your own private outdoor shower under the stars, breakfast with kangaroos in the nearby conservation park, plus the on-site Appellation restaurant and three75 bar, you won’t ever want to leave.” thelouise.com.au
DRINK: Seppeltsfield Road Distillers
“There are hundreds of cellar doors and some of the best Australian wine to sample. But you might find yourself wanting to give your palate a break – in which case, nab a spot on the deck at this artisanal gin distillery. Owners Jon and Nicole Durdin make good use of the bounty of produce available in the region to make their gins, including a very addictive Barossa Shiraz gin, and a more savoury style with borage, thyme and marjoram.” seppeltsfieldroaddistillers.com.au
STOP IN AT: Seppeltsfield Estate Village
“For a memorable full-day of design, beauty, food and wine, Seppeltsfield Village has everything (including our restaurant Fino). It’s home to the contemporary art gallery and studio, JamFactory, and the Vasse Virgin shop and soap factory, where you can try their olive oil products. The Village is also home to a wonderful Cellar Door experience where you can sample the wines, taste the port range and tour the historic village with knowledgeable locals.” seppeltsfield.com.au
HIDDEN GEM: Gardner Knives
“At JamFactory, my favourite place is Gardner Knives. It’s such a great example of the innovation and exceptional craftsmanship that abounds in the region. Here, you can hang out with Barry ‘Baz’ Gardner for a whole day and learn how to hand-craft your own custom-made Damascus steel knife. Who wouldn’t want to do that?” gardnerknives.com
AARON TURNER’S GEELONG, VIC 75 kilometres from Melbourne’s CBD
Owner and chef of IGNI and The Hot Chicken Project, Geelong
“The first time I came to Geelong was probably 20-odd years ago,” says Aaron Turner. “I was playing in a punk hardcore band and living in Melbourne at the time. We used to travel down to play at the Barwon Club Hotel. There wasn’t much going on back then, the city was mostly industrial, but there was a good live music scene. I love that Geelong has retained that working-class vibe. I particularly love the area in the wintertime. It’s a nice feeling being by the sea – and the ferry that connects Geelong and Melbourne has seen even more people able to visit the area. I still think the best way to do it is to hire a car. Whatever you’ve initially planned for, plan to stay a few days longer, and explore the greater area down to the coast and the Otway region as well.”
ALLA WOLF-TASKER’S DAYLESFORD, VIC
110 kilometres from Melbourne’s CBD
Culinary director of Lake House and Dairy Flat Farm & Lodge, Daylesford
“You need several days to even scratch the surface of Daylesford,” says Alla Wolf-Tasker. “We have some of Australia’s best producers, and a rich village and community life with cafés, pubs, cellar doors, produce stalls, restaurants and village shops, all run by locals. Visit and chances are, the cider or beer you drink is being poured by the maker. I first came to Daylesford with my parents as a child, and they eventually bought a little miner’s cottage here. I have fond memories of seasonal rambles for fruit from long abandoned orchards, and foraging for forest mushrooms in autumn, chestnuts in winter, and elderberries and elderflowers in summer. Growing up here, the forests, the lake and the country trails all added up to being a place of great enchantment and adventure. And really, that’s never changed for me.”
STAY: Lake House
“While there’s myriad historic houses, cutting-edge villas and charming cottages immersed in country gardens to stay at – I have to say Lake House! Surrounded by outdoor terraces and gardens cascading down to the shores of Lake Daylesford, it is consistently rated as one of the best dining rooms and boutique hotels in Australia. A walk along the lake shore, or a quiet moment amidst the tall trees and birdsong is the perfect opportunity to pause.” lakehouse.com.au
DRINK: Daylesford Cider
“The tasting paddle of ten delicious local ciders at Daylesford Cider, which has a massive 1800-tree apple orchard, is really something. Come for a cider paddle, stay for a wood-fired pizza, and be sure to take home a few bottles, too.” daylesfordcider.com.au
STOP IN AT: Wombat Hill Botanical Gardens
“The botanical gardens on top of Wombat Hill, the small extinct volcano that overlooks the village, is very special. They propagate and sell plants there (look out for their frequent sales) and are right next door to Wombat Hill House if you have a hankering for a cup of great coffee, wonderful sourdough or a simple lunch.” wombathillhouse.com.au
ONE TO WATCH: Dairy Flat Farm & Lodge
“This is our brand new baby – sure to provide a zillion cherished memories. A 40-acre regenerative farm with a vegetable-growing facility, extensive orchard, and beautiful olive grove and vineyard. A bakehouse produces beautiful sourdough and Viennoiserie daily, and the lodge offers six suites of sustainable luxury.” dairyflatfarmdaylesford.com.au
When I scan my mental archives for my most illustrious flights of fancy, my truly show-stopping fantasies, and my most cinematic daydreams, they have one thing in common: they revolve around travel. I was never the sort of school kid who dreamed about a big wedding, or a Prince Charming, or a huge house, or a fast car, or a pony. I grew up devouring Indiana Jones and the James Bond films, convinced that travelling was the loftiest aspiration a young lady of means could have.
To my young mind, travel meant glamour, it meant adventure, it meant escape, it meant romance, it meant decadence, it meant glory – and it meant success. I fantasised about visiting every single country by the age of 30. I dreamed of being one of those swishy-haired business people striding purposefully through the airport destined for a meeting in Dallas or Helsinki. I imagined jetting from one party island to the next, from Ibiza to Mykonos to Rio to Koh Phangan, changing destinations as often as I changed party dresses.
I steered myself into a career in journalism where I got to fulfil many of my giddiest travel daydreams, and I’ve spent the past ten years travelling the world covering news events and cultural happenings. Whether for work or pleasure, I travelled fast and furiously. I was hungry for new experiences and adopted a sort of fast-fashion approach to visiting new destinations, box-ticking my way through cities and bucket-list attractions as if I was racing towards a finish line. And I never stopped pinching myself, unable to believe my luck that many of my daydreams were becoming realities.
As it turns out, I was right to pinch myself. And there was a finishing line. The coronavirus crisis has stopped every would-be traveller in their tracks. But in these weeks and months of pause, we’ve all had an opportunity to revisit our daydreams. And ask if the old ones were still working out for us. Because even before the pandemic dramatically overhauled our lives, my old modes of transport had started to feel, well, a bit ill-fitting and outdated, like shoes that rub or jeans that don’t sit right.
So I’m currently in the process of recalibrating my travel daydreams. It’s a complete restructuring of priorities, a new set of strategies, a comprehensive overhaul of objectives.
And it feels wonderful.
I no longer fantasise about flashy shopping weekends in New York City. I don’t care about visiting every single European capital purely so I can say I’ve been. I’m not interested in identikit beach resorts where I could be anywhere, because frankly, if this is the case, I really should be closer to home. I no longer see glamour in the life of a jet-setter; the less time I spend in airports and in the throes of jet lag, the more glamorous my life will feel.
Instead, when I daydream wistfully about travelling again, whenever that my be, I imagine moving slowly and gently across the world. I look into how I might replace planes with trains and roads whenever possible, armed with a lengthy novel and a view out the window that undulates and darkens as landscapes roll past, punctuated by occasional parades of urban scenery. I mentally organise intimate glamping holidays in yurts, with a handful of close friends, drinking wine around a camp fire.
I imagine renting a cottage in a coastal town, eschewing supermarkets and supporting local restaurants, farmers and producers as they rebuild their livelihoods. I picture a summer fairly well anchored to my homeland during the warmer months, saving up for just one or two more exotic trips a year. When I think about visiting cities again, it’s hard to imagine a short stay; instead I want to live and work there, get to know it intimately, and justify the journey.
To sum it all up, my new travel daydreams are about dreaming bigger, staying longer, travelling slower, and moving less often. I’ve realised what a privilege one or two international adventures a year would be, and how carefully I would select the treasured experiences that mean the most to me. I’ve had my eyes opened to the travel and culinary riches on my doorstep, that I never fully appreciated or explored, because I’d been bedazzled by cheap airfares elsewhere, or lured further afield by Instagram pics of some new must-visit hotel across the world, or propelled by FOMO to a festival that my friends said I simply must be at.
This new set of daydreams don’t feel like a downgrade in ambition or scope. Far from it. Navigating the travel landscape of the future will require us all to be more organised, more intrepid, and more independent. Travelling more slowly, sustainably and mindfully is a thrilling new challenge for the post-covid community of dedicated travellers. I’m ready for the ride.
Whether for work or pleasure, I travelled fast and furiously. I was hungry for new experiences and adopted a sort of fast-fashion approach.